Lost In Cheeseland

Take a little tour! I've asked Thomas Butler,Irish expat and Localers tour guide, to share an itinerary for the 11th arrondissement, the neighborhood I've proudly called home since I moved to Paris. A bit of history, a standout restaurant scene and a host of indie boutiques await......

Vibrant, ethnically diverse, and undeniably trendy - that's the 11th arrondissement. Its boulevards and avenues span out from Place de la République towards the east, like Boulevard Voltaire and Avenue de la République, delineating this wedge of the city into its own distinct parts with their own character and atmosphere. This includes République-Belleville-Oberkampf to the West, Bastille-Popincourt to the South, and Nation-Alexandre Dumas to the East. Historically a blue-collar district, the 11^th has evolved a great deal in recent years, due in part to the influx of young professionals seeking lower rents and an active nightlife. Over time, this gave way to a sort of gourmet renaissance, attracting younger chefs and inspiring envy in residents of the more expensive parts of town. This flourishing food scene is reason enough to venture east but there are a number of other attractions worth your time:

In the morning stop off at La Fée Verte{108 Rue de la Roquette}.This is a café made famous for its absinthe drinkers, “La fée Verte”, or “green fairy,” was the nickname for liquor that was formerly banned in France. One of Paris’s most famous absinthe supporters, Paul Verlaine, lived on the same street at 17 Rue de la Roquette. The retro decor, especially the wonderful tiled floor, is worth seeing on its own. Resist the temptation to start the day with a glass of Absinthe à la Verlaine and opt instead for a coffee and a croissant.

A few hundred meters up the road is the Père-Lachaise Cemetery. Up until about a century ago, the area around the cemetery offered Parisians a rural retreat. The cemetery opened its gates in the early part of the 19^th Century. The incredible tombs, many in gothic-revival, are clustered like miniature chapels under narrow tree-lined avenues. Start at the main gates and wander to the top of the hill and take in the incredible view of Paris just like Rastignac did in Balzac’s book, Le Père Goriot, when he muttered the words: “It’s war between us now!” Incidentally, Balzac is buried here, along with Oscar Wilde, Marcel Proust, Gertrude Stein, Guillaume Apollinaire, and Jim Morrison (among others). Set aside several hours to explore the graveyard in its entirety.

After your have sufficiently soaked up the atmosphere of old Paris, you’ll be ready for its modern side.

For chic: LeDauphin, the unbearably cool, marble and glass, Rem Koolhaus-designed avenue Parmentier restaurant , should definitely be a first port of call for any foodie worth their salt. The lunchtime menu at 27euro is pricey for those on a budget, but a good value if you are in search of top-notch experimental cuisine.

Looking for more bang for your buck? Take a walk to nearby rue Oberkampf for an excellent meal of French style tapas at the retro bar Aux Deux Amis{45 rue Oberkampf}. There’s a great bookshop up the road for browsing at number 88 called Le Livre à Venir. Crammed with objects and books, like a miniature version of André Breton’s apartment, you will find a great selection of second hand art books and French literature. There is also an intriguing collection of ethnic art that dominates the cramped interior.

Interested in vintage home decor? A few hundred meters back down rue Oberkamf, past Métro Parmentier, you’ll stumble upon a whole series of side streets collectively known as Popincourt. The charming small alleyways around the rue du Marché Popincourt, rue Neuve Popincourt, and rue Turnauxwill reveal a whole hoard of Aladdin’s caves. Perfect for Saturday browsing, spend some time sorting through the many shops that stock oddities and vintage gems from the 1930s right up to the 1980s. When you’ve awakened your appetite, stop for pizza by the slice at Al Taglio {2 bis rue Neuve Popincourt}.

A glass of wine at the nearby organic-natural cave-à-vin, Le Cave Ferveré {16 Rue des Trois Bornes}, is a must if you are eager to discover the new wave of cavistes opening in the district. Meeting the eccentric owner, Olivier Aubert, is in itself worth the visit. Taste the terrific wine on offer and learn why Olivier believes so strongly in natural wines.

After you’ve eaten, drank, shopped and strolled, end the day with dinner at La Pharmacie {22 Rue Jean Pierre Timbaud} and a concert atL’Alimentation Générale {64 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud}

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On your next trip to Paris, sign up for a walking tour with Thomas or one of the other local guides in the Localers family! More information HERE.

After years of studying France's literary top brass - Baudelaire, Hugo, and Flaubert among others - it was a much different kind of storyteller who officially ushered me into expat life in Paris. Marc Levy, the most widely read French author in the world, is known for his narratives of impassioned love, searing loss and buoyant hope. As I initially struggled to navigate as an adopted Parisian and embrace an all-French lifestyle, his words proved as educational as they were edifying. His work, forever connected to this formative time in my life, was also a launchpad for discussion with French people I encountered - even my sister-in-law had his entire collection. His novels are ubiquitous because they're so eminently relatable. And when you need a novel to be a source of comfort, you turn to Marc.

With thirteen #1 bestsellers in France, printed translations in 45 languages and several big-screen adaptations of his work (Just Like Heaven with Reese Witherspoon, for one) since he ventured into twelve years ago, Marc's novels have only just become accessible to American readers. English translations are now available through Amazon and iTunes so you can dive right in from the beginning.

And to help you get to know him a bit better, Marc graciously accepted to answer a few questions below.

You came to writing as a profession late in life. What inspired this shift?

It wasn’t exactly a shift: when my son was between five and nine years old, I used to write a bedtime story for him every night. When he turned nine, he explained to me that TV was much better and more fun… but after he was asleep, I realized that I really missed writing the stories for him. So, as I could no longer write for the child he was, I thought that I would write for the man that he would one day become. That’s how I started to write my first novel, If Only It Were True. At the time, I would have never imagined that this story could be published. I’m aware that I was very lucky. Since then, I’ve been able to write full time.

Why did you choose to leave France and make a home for yourself in the States? How has your adopted home informed your work?

I like living abroad and moved to London for several years before moving to New York. Being in contact with people of a different culture and who speak another language is always very enriching. It’s also a daily lesson in humility: nothing is ever a given. Every day you must forget your habits and reflexes, and adapt to the customs of the country where you live, even if they sometimes don't make any sense.

I’ve always felt drawn by New York and its energy, its cultural diversity, eclecticism, and dynamic feel… I’ve lived there in the past, and wrote several chapters of my books there.

And it’s not because you live abroad that you love your own country less… On the contrary, often the things you miss have even more prominence in your life. French people living abroad are also ambassadors that help foreigners discover and love their country.

What is life like for you as a widely recognized public figure when you go back to France?

First it feels like seeing my family, which I miss a lot. Then my friends and then.... my favorite Parisian café and restaurant, and that feels really good.

You have an older son who was raised primarily in France and a young son whom you are raising in New York. What differences do you see in the French and American parenting cultures?

My older son was actually raised primarily in London. It's a bit difficult for me to comment on contemporary French parenting culture, since I've been living outside of France for the past 15 years, but as far as I can tell, there aren't too many differences. As parents, we all love our children with the same heart and want the best for them. I suppose one difference might be that in France, we focus less on the psychology of the child and more on his or her practical education. For example, when I was at a French friend's house, she had told her son he couldn't do something and he responded, "You're hurting my feelings!" Our other French friends laughed, as this is not very French—it would not garner a child in France much sympathy when being scolded or told no. Perhaps French parents are more old-fashioned, stricter in this way...or at least, mine were with me.

What makes it onto your French reading list?

There are some classic authors that are always on my list, such as Romain Gary, Victor Hugo and Jacques Prévert. I recently read La Délicatesse (Delicacy) by David Foenkinos, which is a story full of sensibilities and particularly touching. (editor’s note: also a film with AudreyTautou).

After widespread success in print and on the big screen, what's next for you?

A new novel that I will publish in two weeks in France!

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Thank you, Marc!

Win a weekend in Paris for two

International e-book publisher Versilio is conducting "The Marc Levy Paris Getaway Sweepstakes" in the US through Sunday, February 10th, 2013. Head over to Marc’s Facebook page to enter (U.S. residents only)!

For more on Marc and his work, visit his website.

Lost In Cheeseland | Franco File Friday posts

The ineffable magic of Paris can be experienced almost anywhere - on its well-worn boulevards and cobblestoned market streets to its vintage shopping enclaves and ostensibly old-fashioned bistros that bookend each corner. But for me, the city is at its most ethereal early on a Sunday morning or late at night once the din of crowds and car traffic subsides. Walk out your door at dawn on a weekend and you'll find that the silence is almost electric; the emptiness hauntingly beautiful.

Imagine that feeling within the illustrious walls of France's most iconic museum. Filmmaker Florent Igla's "Path to Beauty" offers a rare look inside the Louvre's cavernous halls, without the throngs of visitors, cleaning staff or security guards to obstruct the views. Even from afar, the journey through art and history is exceptional.

(If you received this post by email, click HERE to watch the video mentioned above)

It goes without saying that one of the greatest assets to living in Paris is the arms-length access to some of the world's finest foods. But navigating the warren of restaurants can be as difficult for locals as for visitors. The prevalent use of industrially produced or frozen ingredients has been a specter haunting the city's food scene for a number of years, only adding to that challenge. Fortunately, young talents, both French and foreign, have made great inroads and largely restored faith in the capital's culinary prowess.

And there is perhaps no one better suited to discuss the vagaries of the city's food scene than food writer Alec Lobrano, Gourmet Magazine's go-to man in Paris for ten years and adopted Parisian since 1986. Today, the Connecticut native writes regularly (on France and beyond) for The New York Times, The Guardian, Bon Appetit, Conde Nast Traveler and Town & Country and is a contributing editor at Saveur. But what hooked me to his work and initiated my own interest in food was his book Hungry for Paris: the Ultimate Guide to the City's 102 Best Restaurants (in exciting news, an updated version is in the works). With pitch-perfect recommendations, Alec is by far my reference for dining out and should be yours if he isn't already.

Here, he talks cuisine and congés (vacation), two of the most important tenets of a French lifestyle.

Describe what you love about France in three words

Its food and wine, history and aesthetics. (And what I don't like about France in one word? It's politics!)

Things most people overlook when they travel to Paris?

Aside from such major public gardens as the Luxembourg and the Tuileries, Paris is truffled with small public gardens that are delightful places to read, study the surrounding architecture and strike up a conversation. Bill Graham's Parisians' Paris suggest many of these. Otherwise, most visitors completely overlook the 16th arrondissement, dismissing it as stuffy and residential. The realityis that it has some of the best museums in the city--the Musée de Marmottan and the Musée Guimet among them, some gorgeous architecture and some beautiful parks.

Your go-to spot in France to relax?

If money is no object, I love the Hotel du Palais in Biarritz, La Ferme aux Grives in Eugenie-les-Bains, La Mirande in Avignon and the Domaine de Murtoliin Corsica. Otherwise, I also like Le Touquet (Hotel Westminster is great value for the money and they're some good restaurants up there), Lyon as often as I can get there for the food and cultural life, and Savignac in the Lot.

Three not-to-be missed eateries for first-timers?

I'm going to give you and upstairs/downstairs answer to this torturous question.

An experience of serious French haute cuisine is a spine-cracking pleasure that everyone should have. For traditional French cooking at this level, I'd go to Paul Bocuse in Lyon, Le Bristol or Guy Savoy in Paris. For inventive haute cuisine, Pierre Gagnaire is a genius, and I also love Mauro Colagreco in Menton, and Alexandre Gauthier at La Grenouillere.

But more than anything else, you should do one of the rare surviving old fashioned bistros in Paris, like A la Biche au Bois, and similar places in the provinces--a real buchon in Lyon like Chez Hugon, a real estaminet in the north of France like L’Estaminet de l’Ancienne Maison Commune in Hondghem, and other old-fashioned regional tables. And to see how brilliant the new generation of French chefs are you'll need to try places like Septime, Rosevalor Le Pantruche in Paris, Palegrie in Lyon, Le Grain de Sel in Marseilles.

Most amusing interaction with the French?

I've lived in Paris long enough now that people are never quite sure where I'm from. So they guess--Belgian? Swiss? etc. I love the expression on their faces when I say nope, New England!

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Thanks, Alec! For one of the web's most extensive collections of restaurant reviews from all over the city (with some diversions elsewhere in France), visit Alec's website Diner's Diary and pick up a copy of his book Hungry for Paris (an update is in the works). Follow his food and travel updates on-the-go on Twitter: @AlecLobrano and get your bookshelves ready for his newest food compendium Hungry for France which will be released in the Spring of 2014.

Blizzards, hail storms and bone-chilling temperatures have marked the start of 2013 and while there's plenty to enjoy in Paris at this time of year, the attendant sniffles and coughs quickly put a damper on fun. In times like these we must skew our attention elsewhere - toward planning. Because there's no greater salve for winter doldrums than the promise of a getaway.

In our case, we've got our sights set on a return to Amsterdam to visit friends who, after years of expat life, are steeling themselves for their next adventure; a first trip to Florence; a long weekend in Marseille; a short sojourn in the Dordogne for a wedding; a jaunt around Spain or Portugal (end of July/August - which is better?!); and our long overdue honeymoon in Thailand (potentially) at the tail end of 2013. Sadly, this means there may not be an opportunity for me to return to the States this year but I'm hoping to sneak in a week by autumn.

As exciting as these prospects are, planning them properly - that is, ensuring our itinerary will yield the best possible experience - entails considerable research. Fortunately, AFAR Magazine's integrated online community puts travel tips and recommendations all in one place to facilitate the process. I've become an AFAR ambassador because I've found so much value in the locals and travel writers who have collectively traveled the world and shared their highlights from the road. The magazine itself is equally as rich in storytelling and does a terrific job of sparking wanderlust.

If you aren't familiar with the magazine, now is your chance! I have a year subscription to give away to 1 lucky reader.

//AFAR Magazine Giveaway

To win a year subscription to the print edition of AFAR Magazine, tell me:

1// where you're thinking of going in 2013 (domestic or international)
2// where you would go if money were no object and why

Extra entry:
Follow AFAR on Twitter (@AFARMedia) and leave another comment below telling me you did.

~~**You have until next Wednesday, February 20th to enter at which point I will select one winner at random (winner must have a U.S. mailing address!)**~~
[Update]: Congratulations to Katy Bryce who is planning a trip to Baja, Mexico this year! I'll be in touch about your magazine subscriptions. Thanks for playing, everyone!

I can't wait to read which destinations you'll choose!

{Watercolor illustrations courtesy of Jessie Kanelos Weiner for Lost In Cheeseland. Don't miss her feature on Franco File Friday!}

Do you recall the first time you traveled overseas? My journey began in London and continued in Paris where the experience was, as you can imagine, life-changing. With 30+ million foreign tourists a year, Paris remains the ne plus ultra in fantasy travel destinations. But does it hold the same allure for visitors from other French-speaking regions?

For Marie Asselin, graphic designer and author of the food and travel blogFood Nouveau, the French mystique was an ever-present fixture of her childhood growing up in Quebec City. From French books and television programs to frequent visits from French friends who lavished her family with local specialties and gifts, her proximity to the culture naturally informed her ambitions. When she finally took her first trip abroad ten years ago, the connection solidified. Though her blog covers culinary adventures from all over the world, French inspiration is never out of sight.

Describe what you love about France in three words.

History, gourmet shopping, pastries.

First thing you do when you return to Paris?

I usually fly to France on red-eye flights, so when I get to Paris, the first thing I do after dropping my bags at my rented apartment is to go out and have a classic “petit déj,” or a Parisian breakfast. This habit helps me get through the first day, even if I got very little sleep on the plane, instantly chasing jet lag away. The petit déj consists of a freshly squeezed orange juice, a coffee, and a pastry or sliced baguette served with butter and jam, and it's sold as an inexpensive morning formule (fixed-price menu) in cafés all over the city. I always stay in the second arrondissement, which has come to feel like home away from home to me, and my favorite place to go for such lazy breakfasts is Le Rocher de Cancale, a 160-year-old café on rue Montorgueuil. It’s a friendly, laid-back place with a small, heated terrace where I can sit for a couple of hours, people watch at leisure, send a few e-mails to local friends (they have free wi-fi), and let myself soak in the joy of being back in Paris.

Some of your favorite culinary experiences in France?

When I travel, I usually spend lots (and I mean lots) of time planning where and what I will be eating. Ironically, given France’s important culinary heritage and the countless excellent restaurant options, I never plan ahead when I go to Paris. The only Michelin-starred restaurant I have visited is Hélène Darroze for lunch (it was great, but expensive); I usually prefer stopping at cafés along my way, or even better, cooking with friends after shopping for the very best ingredients at the city’s many excellent markets and gourmet shops (one of the perks of renting an apartment in Paris). I try to do as the locals do, and I am faithful to the same caviste (wine shop), boulangerie (bakery), fromagerie (cheese shop), and fruiterie (produce shop), all located along Montorgueil, where I delight in recognizing familiar faces, even when I return after an absence of a year or more. Gourmet shopping is also how I usually organize visits to new neighborhoods, turning casual strolls into mini food tours.

There are classics though, things I just have to have every time I go to Paris: croissants, of course (as many as my lactose-intolerant tummy will allow), macarons by Pierre Hermé, chocolate éclairs from Stohrer, Berthillon sorbets on Île St-Louis, and a Japanese kaseiki meal at Guilo Guilo.

How do you get your French-fix at home?

The good thing about living in Québec is that our culinary heritage is very much inspired by our French ancestors. We have mastered classic French specialties such as cheese making(I’ve had French guests admit that some of our cheeses surpassed their favorites at home—quite a feat), and local meat producers make delicious terrines and foie gras. Sometimes, I make a simple meal out of a fresh baguette, fine cheeses, terrines, and charcuteries, just like in Paris.

When I feel especially nostalgic, I make macarons. I first learned to make them in Paris five years ago, and I have made hundreds (thousands?) at home since then, to the great pleasure of my family and friends. The whole process has a soothing effect on me, and getting a homemade fix of those delicious, colorful cookies also buys me time before I surrender to the urge of flying off to Paris again!

Most amusing or frustrating interaction with the French?

Another good thing about being from Québec is that in Paris, there is no language barrier… most of the time. The French in general love their “cousins” from the other side of the ocean, and they find our accent charming (the Québécois speak with an accent that is very different from that of the French, and they use different expressions, just as the American and British varieties of English differ). Many Québécois come back from Paris frustrated, having had to repeat themselves endlessly or having been taken for someone speaking a different language.

The Parisians working in the service industry seem to want to hear things one way, so sometimes you have to know exactly how to order food or drinks or how to interact with the cashier at the grocery store to make sure you’ll avoid enduring too many annoyed looks. Many foreign visitors find themselves misunderstood in Paris, even when they're trying to speak French, but it can be especially irritating to people from Québec – we speak the same language after all!

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Thanks, Mariei! If you're as curious as I am about Montréal and Québec City (and beyond), be sure to follow Marie's work:

Blog: Food Nouveau
Travel guide: About.com
Twitter: @FoodNouveau
Facebook: Food Nouveau

You can also find her contributing to Food Bloggers of Canada, Foodie.com and Houzz.com.

[To check out my contribution to Marie's 'Edible Cities' series on Philadelphia, click here!]

*Photos courtesy of Marie Asselin

I was in an uncertain place when I first came to Paris six and a half years ago for a study abroad summer program. Smarting from heartbreak and questioning how this trip would benefit me in any concrete, sustained way, my new friends exhorted me to mute the past. Use this opportunity to seek adventure, they said. That would pull me out of my funk.

They must have sensed something was brewing because I fortuitously met my husband at a party in my residence three days after I arrived. After what felt like an hour of chatting with his colleague at length about foreign perceptions of the French, the conversation shifted to relationships. He pointed out my husband from across the room as his single friend and offered to introduce us. Whatever reservations I may have felt about this trip were overcome in a nanosecond - his smile was controlled but warm. His features were striking, his demeanor reserved. Abundantly cliché to be sure but the sparks were instantaneous.

I knew little of French dating etiquette but I remained true to my social credo and made the first move. I engaged him, I asked to exchange phone numbers and, according to his recollection of our first encounters, I texted him shortly thereafter to plan a date. Even I was surprised by my heedless attitude. A stranger in an unfamiliar city- I could get kidnapped! Or far worse, I might fall in love only to be forced to return to the States and suffer continued heartbreak. Since we know how the story ends, I'll skip right to our first date since its unusual nature remains a potent reminder of the vastly different way in which the Americans and French approach dating.

The most important fact: it lasted eight hours. We began at Odéon, strolled around Saint-Germain, ambled through Luxembourg Gardens, nibbled on cheese on rue Montorgueil, smooched on rue Réamur, walked (hands entwined) to the 11th and exchanged stories until long after the summer sun had dipped beyond the horizon. This type of connection rarely blossomed for me after multiple dates with American men let alone after the first evening. And that says nothing of the first kiss as the automatic symbol of coupledom. No games, no ambivalence, no questioning what it all meant nor wondering if he would call. We were together and he would. Always.

But not all encounters play out this way, or at least that's what my friend Jennifer Fox Geraghty is hoping to illustrate with her short film series L'Amour (or Less) which features reenactments of actual dates between expats and natives. If the trailer is any indication of what's to come, we're in for a comically truthful depiction of dating.

For the web series to be produced in its entirety, however, Jennifer and her team need our help to fund it. You can show your support by donating (minimum $5) to her Kickstarter campain. I, for one, am eager to see if anyone else went from célibataire to en couple within the span of an afternoon. A little goes a long way so let's help make this happen!

For more information on the show, click HERE. To readers who found love in France - what was courtship like?

Photo: François Jorez

If you had told me in 2009, just as I finished grad school, that I would partner with a friend and launch a small business, I would have laughed incredulously. As you've likely gathered, French administration is no easy web to navigate and even less so when it involves starting your own business. The Auto-Entrepreneur regime has eased the attendant costs and stresses but a fearless attitude is still required to dodge the inevitable curveball. Could I have pursued the project mere months after moving to Paris? Pas du tout.

Lindsey Kent saw opportunity and transformation in her transatlantic move. New city, new chapter, new project, she reasoned. And with only a few French classes behind her, she set off to make a longtime passion the focus of her new business. Photographing travelers and locals all over Paris with her year-old business Pictours Paris has allowed her to discover her adopted city and accelerate the process of settling in. Her other secrets to feeling at home? Find out below....

Describe what you love about France in three words?

Photo opportunities everywhere.

Best and quickest way to get acclimated to life in France?

When we arrived in Paris, my husband went to work in a kitchen right away. So while he cooked days and nights, I had no choice but to get “acclimated.” However, at first I think I approached life in France as a tourist rather than a resident. I spent the first few weeks exploring with my camera, going to museums, eating at touristy spots, and shopping at specialty shops. At the rate we were going through savings, I had to hit the brakes and figure out life in Paris as a local. So I enrolled in French classes, got to know my neighborhood, shopped for fresh food daily, and cooked at home. Making connections with other English speaking expats helped me feel at home and fill that language barrier void that even today I still struggle with in speaking with the French.

So maybe I didn’t do things in the easiest and quickest ways possible, but I can say now that I’ve acclimated to the best of my abilities and life in Paris is great.

Favorite place to shoot for personal projects and professional portraits?

Palais Royal. Couples look picture-perfect kissing underneath the canopy of trees in the gardens or alongside the beautiful covered archways and stone columns. Galerie Vivienne and Véro-Dodat are also favorite places to take photographs in if you can find a quiet time. The cobblestone streets lined with bicycles are also fun for photographs and often lead me over to Verjus for a glass of wine and to say hi to my husband who now cooks there.

What living in Paris has taught you about yourself?

Paris gave me the courage to pursue my dreams and start a business. If we were still living in Denver, I’d still be at the same job and doing the same thing on a weekly basis. Life was easy and content, so there wasn’t much of a reason to change anything. But moving abroad came with so many personal and professional challenges, so I decided to turn those fears into opportunities that I could only create by my own doing. It’s been an amazing journey of self-discovery, and I have Paris – and my husband – to thank.

Most amusing or frustrating interaction with the French?

It was a frustrating experience turned amusing in the end. One night last month, two guys decided to jump onto the metro and steal my iPhone and the phone of the woman sitting next to me. My immediate instinct was to run after them! So I chased them all the way out to the street but they were just too fast and they got away. What was I going to do if I caught up to them anyway? Probably a stupid decision, but what was important is that I got a good look at the two guys. Through my “Franglish sherades” at the police station that night, the cops got a few good laughs in at the expense of my situation, but they also had a solid idea of who they were looking for. Two days later I was called back to watch the security tape and identify the suspects. I almost fell off my chair laughing as I saw myself ever so graciously hop off the train and give chase in high heels after two lousy thieves!

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Thanks, Lindsey! If you're headed to Paris and would like to capture the moment (especially in the case of nuptials!), contact Lindsey for a photo session. Be sure to follow her updates on Twitter: @PictoursParis.

Later this year, my husband and I will celebrate five years of marriage. I used to roll my eyes at my parents when they'd bemoan the swift passage of time - "it feels like only yesterday....", the story goes. Now as I get older, and my days become increasingly dictated by meetings, appointments, deadlines and dinners, I understand their bewilderment.

But before we reach this astounding milestone, we will celebrate one equally as sentimental. Five years ago to the month, we bought and moved into our first Paris apartment. Few vestiges of our studio life remained as we ushered in the next chapter of our lives, trading my husband's adolescent furnishings for more sophisticated wall-hangings and wood pieces we actually intended to preserve. A small space became a veritable home, brimming with firsts and inimitable moments.

While our plans are inchoate at this stage, we're hoping to continue our journey in 2013 in a slightly larger space, perhaps even in a new neighborhood. I'm deeply attached to this home - exposed wood beams, orange kitchen tiles and all- and the thought of filing it away with other memories seems unceremonious. Paris has been undeniably instrumental in forging my sense of self but so has this apartment.

So when I saw my friend Meg's gorgeous photo session at home with photographer Jean-Laurent Gaudy, I knew I wanted to do something similar. A 'love session' at home, in the environment most comfortable and natural for both of us. Valentine's Day was approaching (also the anniversary of our engagement) so I spoke with Jean-Laurent, arranged a date and made it my gift. I take great pleasure in photographing the world around me but that means that I have few photos of me and Cédric together, and even less chez nous.

I was moved to tears when I saw the results of last weekend's shoot (a small selection below) both because JL captured exactly what I was imagining and because he gave us a memento we will happily and lovingly take with us wherever we go from here.

To see more of Jean-Laurent's work, click here. Be sure to follow his Facebook page for on-the-go snapshots and portfolio updates!

Unless you count perfectly runny scrambled eggs and heaping plates of pasta (my go-to meals when I lived in the States), I think it's fair to say I really learned to cook in France. What's more, I learned under somewhat unfavorable conditions. My kitchen was no larger than a broom closet and my guinea pig was a discerning Frenchman accustomed to French classics. The pressure was high.

If anyone is an expert at optimizing small spaces and demystifying French cooking it's Rachel Khoo, Cordon Bleu-trained chef and author of The Little Paris Kitchen. After landing the book deal, Rachel realized that testing 120 recipes was going to produce more food than she could possibly eat herself so she transformed her tiny apartment (22m2!) into a twice-weekly pop-up restaurant. No food would go to waste and a few lucky diners would get to provide feedback on her French recipes (done simply). The press took note of Rachel's concept and BBC2 saw the potential to parlay the idea into a cooking series. In March of last year, she assumed her role as host of The Little Paris Kitchen cooking show, which now airs in several other countries, and is hard at work on book number two.

Across all touch points, Rachel has shown that no one, not even amateur cooks, should feel daunted by French recipes. "You're English, you can't cook!", French chefs told her initially. Oh yes she can.

Meet Britain's most charming chef in Paris!

Describe in three words what you love most about France.

Fresh food markets

The most important thing to remember about cooking French dishes?

Not just relevant to cooking French dishes but it applies to cooking in general. The better quality produce, the less work in the kitchen it needs. For example a ripe, in season tomato can be eaten with a sprinkle of salt whereas a greenhouse-grown Winter tomato will lack in flavour and will need to be dressed with many other ingredients.

After being on the road, your go-to spot in Paris for a good meal?

After being on the road I want to eat home cooked food which involves me going to the market and stocking up on lots of fresh fruit and vegetables. It's what I crave most as eating out usually isn't a light affair.

Something you never leave France without?

My notebook. It travels with me everywhere. A must for writing down any inspiration which might come to me while travelling. Ideas for recipes come to me in the most random places!

Most frustrating interaction with the French?

Taxi drivers. I always dread taking a French taxi as I have dealt with so many grumpy and rude drivers. I'm sure there are a couple of nice French taxi drivers out there but somehow I always get the wrong one!

- GIVEAWAY-

If you'd like to win a copy of The Little Paris Kitchen (winner must have a mailing address in North America), leave a comment below telling me which French dish you're most eager to learn to cook.

For extra entries:
- Follow Rachel on Twitter @rkhooks (and include a comment telling me you did)
- Follow Lost In Cheeseland on Facebook (and include a comment telling me you did)

Entries will close Wednesday, March 13 and the two winners will be announced at the bottom of this post and contacted via email.

Update: Congratulations to Susan H. and Anne Maxfield! Thanks for playing everyone.

Connect with Rachel and follow her journey!
Twitter: @rkhooks
Facebook: Rachel Khoo
The show: The Little Paris Kitchen
The blog: Tasty Tales from Paris and Beyond

And check out all three of her books HERE.

There was good reason for locals to wax rhapsodic about the arrival of the food truck. More than just unprecedented, it was a force capable of going up against pettifogging bureaucrats and a city resistant to change, with Kristen Frederick as the movement's captain. It was also a welcome diversion from the overwrought New York City decor that began to define every new bistro and even the renovations of old favorites. Line the walls with photographs of the Manhattan skyline and you had yourself a theme, it seemed.

Now that Paris's besotted love affair with its imposing sister city of the West has somewhat tempered, attention can be refocused on more interesting, emerging trends on the food scene.

After ‘sans gluten’ found a place in the Parisian lexicon last year thanks to Helmut Newcake and more recently Noglu, vegan is the next buzzword to be embraced by locals. Marked by limited, starch-heavy menu options, dining out in Paris was once a daunting prospect for vegetarians. For vegans, it was nearly impossible. But as Anglo influences, both good and bad, began to seep into the collective consciousness, locals bemoaned this paucity of veggie-friendly spots. Realizing the business potential, many food entrepreneurs and chefs have jumped on board and helped transform the city into a far more dynamic and varied place to eat for all tastes.

Café Pinson, a 'healthy' café (as the local press is calling it) that opened in January in the Northern Marais, caters to all forms of green lovers and is even infusing some of that elusive kale in the form of salads and smoothies. Many chefs and bakers have been reluctant to offer dairy-free/gluten-free versions of their goods because the texture and taste are difficult to master but the crew at Pinson have their strategy firmly in place.

American chef Cameil Kaundart swaps refined sugar for agave syrup or non-refined sugar to sweeten up desserts and uses almond or hazelnut milk for all coffee and spiced tea beverages. A rainbow of fresh savory dishes changes regularly and you can expect a hearty range of salty-sweet treats for weekend brunch (that is, if you were wise enough to reserve a spot).

Parisian designer

Dorothée Meilichzon, best known for her work on the Experimental Cocktail Club, Compagnie des Vins Supernaturels and Hotel Paradis, lent her talents to Café Pinson's modern-meets-vintage interior which is both spacious and intimate. You can smack a label on the vibe (Parisians are calling it San Francisco-inspired) but really it comes down to a feeling. More than a veggie place, it's a relaxing hangout suitable for all moments of the day. And certainly worth a visit on your next trip.

Café Pinson*

6 rue du Forez

75003 Paris

+33(0)9 83 82 53 53

Open daily, weekend brunch

Family friendly!

{*took over Tartes Kluger's old space. You can now find them at 15 rue Trousseau, 75011}.

Lost In Cheeseland Food and Restaurant posts

The first time I met Linda Houliston, I left with sore stomach muscles. I say that in the best way possible –I was doubled over in laughter the entire evening and couldn’t catch my breath until we parted ways. This fellow Pennsylvanian is unquestionably funny and uses Paris as the impetus for her particular stripe of comedy. And it’s exactly her flair for storytelling (of all kinds) and humor that make her a natural tour guide.

Passionate about her adopted city and its storied past, Linda partnered with the equally as outgoing Tyler Arcaro and launched Oui ParisTours, personalized group and private themed walking tours of Paris and Versailles. Within only a few months, their dynamic excursions were ranked in the top 10 on Trip Advisor and it’s easy to see why. Get to know one half of the Oui crew!

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Louis XIV, Pastry, Palaces

Something you've learned about yourself (or about life) as a result of living here?

Paris is such an amazing place to grow. Everybody has two lives: the one where they learn, and the one where they live. This city is often frustrating because it always makes you realize how little you know about everything. Where I grew up, if you didn’t have a tractor or dead deer in your house you were considered uncultured. But in Paris, you need to know about art, culture, music, film, literature, history, politics, food…in short, EVERYTHING. This city constantly keeps you on your feet and you have endless resources to learn more and more. It is an amazing classroom.

Favorite spots to take first-timers in Paris?

Paris Bootcamp! Being a first-timer guest with me is a test of physical and mental endurance because I walk you like we are training for the French Foreign Legion. We basically walk from dawn to dawn. I always take friends to the Eiffel Tower at sunrise because almost no one is there and you get a more intimate experience. I also love going bike riding at Versailles where I can pretend to be Louis XIV on the hunt! Of course my royal guests are members of my court. After all that, maybe I will let you sleep…maybe.

Words of advice for Francophiles looking to move abroad and settle in France?

It’s not easy. It’s like the Amazing Race. There are obstacles, language barriers, you have to run around everywhere, you’ll sweat and you’ll cry. However, if you win you are rewarded. You get a life time’s worth of French pastries and unlimited hours of café sitting in the most beautiful country in the world. But best advice I can give, call your local embassy until you talk to 5 different people because for some reason they always have different information on what you need. Then back that information up with what is on their website.

Most amusing or frustrating interaction with the French?

Ugh oh! Pandora’s box of Paris metro stories. It has so many levels of frustration and amusement for me. No one talks there! And if you do talk, Parisians go crazy! Like dolphins in a tank. Just sonar bouncing everywhere. People stare at you like Invasion of the Body Snatchers. Metro line 1 basically has a booby trap door that closes on you and dislocates all your bones until the next stop. Châtelet is like the chaos of the sinking of the Titanic. And to the person who always sits down when the train is full: I am not shy about putting my bag in your face. Stand up!

Thanks, Linda! Be sure to contact Linda and Tyler for a tour on your next trip to Paris, fantastic time guaranteed.

For Oui Paris Tours updates, follow them on Twitter @OuiParisToursand on Facebook!

With food and wine having pride of place, France is a hedonist's paradise. For me, it was more of a linguistic paradise. I came here with little more than a passing appreciation for the country's gastronomic wonders and a palate in dire need of shaping and schooling. Nearly seven years and considerable progress later and I wonder how I ever managed to nourish myself before I moved given such limited food preferences. As proud as I am to say that living in France has broadened my tastes in invaluable ways, there is one area in particular where I remain shamefully unenlightened.

Le vin - the country's lifeblood, its prized elixir and, according to my father-in-law, the only thing worth drinking - continues to escape me. I have a few trusty favorites but ask me to articulate why I enjoy them or where they fall in the vast spectrum of varieties and I'll struggle to tell you. But I'm optimistic. Next weekend I'm off to the Loire for the open house at the Château du Petit Thouars, a 30-acre vineyard in the village of Saint-Germain-sur-Vienne that has been in the du Petit Thouars family since the 17th century. My goal is to return more confident and discerning about wine and if Sébastien du Petit Thouars has any say in the matter, it's almost certain I will. To properly prepare for our trip, I caught up with Sébastien to talk about the business and what we can expect over Easter weekend.

Tell us a little bit about the Château and what you do.
The Château du Petit Thouars has been in the family since 1634. We found maps documenting vines on the property as far back as the 18th century, but it's really when my parents planted new feet vines in 1975 that the exploitation became a professional winery. I joined the team in the fall of 2008 to develop the sales, the marketing and the communication of the château. Export-wise we are now present in the US, China, Belgium, the UK and Australia; we have won several commendations at the Decanter World Wine Awards, the International Wine Challenge and are regularly featured in the Guide Hachette des Vins and other wine publications.

What is the one thing novices, like myself, should understand about wine?
That wine is for everyone! It should make you smile and want to share with your friends. For me, it all starts when you find the wines you like and the ones you don't. Then you build on that and refine your knowledge.

Is there really a right and wrong when it comes to pairing wine with food?
In my modest opinion, it's all about the fun of remembering, imagining, testing combinations of flavors, acidities, bitterness, textures and asking yourself about what you're really looking for in a pairing: contrast, fusion, complexity, comfort, etc. No one should be afraid to ask and inquire. I regularly ask the manager of my local wine shop to help with suggestions.

Among the many wine bars in Paris, which should oenophiles consider- any favorites?

I like going to La Cave du Daron, Avenue Parmentier in the 11th. Jean-Julien has a great selection of wines, leaning more towards organic choices, he's great fun, plays nice music and has great planchas of cold cuts, patés, rillettes, boudin and cheeses for which I have a real weakness. I also enjoy going to the two Wine By One opened by Stéphane Girard. They offer a great selection of wines and champagnes available by the glass from around the world, including Château du Petit Thouars. The staff is helpful and friendly and they have a nice selection of nibbles to share with friends while sipping your wine. I also likeLa Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels in the 6th. A very nice selection of wines, maybe more classic, but that's not a bad thing by any means.

Your wines have made their way overseas, most recently to my hometown - Philadelphia! What has the feedback been thus far and will you expand your offering?
Our Cuvée Réserve red 2009 and Crémant de Loire Brut Blanc, both made from 100% Cabernet Franc grapes, have been available at selected PLCB shops in Philadelphia* for 3 months and the feedback has been great! My importers, Heinz and Nathan from ViNo Bliss, are working hard to make sure they're available in other PLCB shops across Pennsylvania. Our Crémant Brut Rosé will be coming next and we hope that all three wines will be available in New York in the near future. I know there's a huge food and wine scene in Philly, so I can't wait to visit and to drink and talk about our wines with as many people as possible.

*Currently available at four shops including Garces Trading Company

What can guests expect at your open house next weekend?
We're looking forward to presenting our full range of wines as well as great products from local artisans (cheeses, chocolate, honey, charcuterie) in the region. We'll also be holdng commented visits of our cellar with members of our team and opening a special room dedicated to the amazing lives and travels of some of the illustrious members of the du Petit Thouars family. Last year we had a great turn out and this year we're partnering with Radio France Bleu Touraine, so we're looking forward to a busy Easter weekend!

If you happen to be in France between March 30-April 1st, don't miss the opportunity to visit the vineyard, taste the du Petit Thouars wine and meet the team. And keep an eye out for their wine on your home turf!

Château du Petit Thouars
37500 Saint-Germain-Sur-Vienne
+33(0)2 47 95 96 40
Map
Open House:
March 30: 2pm-7pm
March 31/April 1: 10am-7pm
Updates on Twitter: @Chateaudptwines

{Photo 1, Sébastien du Petit Thouars; Photo 2/3: Benjamin Albarède}

Question the merits of a time-tested jambon-beurre or poulet-crudités to a French person and you're liable to elicit a backlash. I speak from experience.

Despite evolving habits of consumption and a wonderfully creative food scene, their lunchtime staples remain entrenched in the past. As a longtime consumer of peanut-butter and jelly sandwiches (with crust), I certainly see the value in a classic. But I'm also a firm believer that there should be a whole host of options to satisfy our ever-changing cravings. The French have mastered this when it comes to pastry but there's work left to be done on the humble sandwich.

Mid-market lunch joints should take a cue from the Verjus crew who recently began offering lunch in their downstairs wine bar. The menu currently features three US-inspired sandwiches and can be ordered alone or as part of a full meal which comes with a dessert and a drink. Two of the three current recipes contain pork, which I don't eat, but the third was right up my alley. Days after trying my first Bakesale Betty - buttermilk fried chicken, homemade buns, cabbage slaw with shallots and parsley, and a mustard vinaigrette - and I'm still thinking about it. Talking about it too - my French colleagues have been instructed to give the menu a try and I'm confident that the Midnight Cuban in particular (first photo), with marinated and braised pork shoulder, grilled baguette, roasted garlic mayo, cilantro and pickled chilies, will capture their hearts and intrigue their bellies. So long as they don't bristle at the price (15€ sandwich + dessert + drink).

Tip: take your lunch to go and head to the nearby Palais Royal gardens for a picnic

Verjus
47 rue Montpensier, 75001
Tel: +33(0)1 42 97 54 40
Métro: Palais Royal (1), Bourse (3)
Tues-Fri, 12:30-2pm

*I really love sandwiches. More on that here!

In the quest to optimize and tweak our current space before seriously considering moving onto the next, I spend tremendous amounts of time trolling the nebulous world of home décor and DIY websites. My "la maison" board on Pinterest, while beautiful, mostly serves to remind me of what little space I have to work with and how largely inaccessible most of the pieces are here in France. But some stories give me hope - amazing things are possible! Perhaps the most inspiring example of home renewal and adaptive reuse is Dutch graphic designer Judith de Graaf's home in the Oise, 50k north of Paris.

Several years ago, Judith and her husband bought an abandoned industrial building from the 1960's and spent well over a year renovating it into a habitable space. They did everything themselves, from electricity to plumbing, and designed their home from scratch -something I never would have had the courage or patience to do. In addition to being featured on Design*Sponge and in the Ikea Family magazine, Studio Sapique, as Judith calls the place, has its own permanent focus on her blog Joelix where you can scroll through the entire transformation.

Over ten years in France and she couldn't imagine life any other way - she has more space than one could ever hope for in Paris, brilliant light, and a region she has thoroughly enjoyed exploring and writing about.

Describe what you love about France in three words.

gourmandise • home • pride

Something you've learned about yourself/life from the French?

To be patient. It's actually an ongoing process and I'm still not very good at it. French bureaucracy is very inefficient and it can be so frustrating to wait for simple paperwork to get done. I also learned to never be early for an appointment. I was 20 minutes early for my first job interview and the lady at the front desk asked me "what are you doing here?". In Holland it's very appreciated if you arrive on time or even a bit early so that the meeting can start right away. Subtle differences...

Favorite sources for design inspiration in Paris?

Like in any city, I love wandering around, spotting beautiful typography (for my Typography of Travel series) and discovering new boutiques or galleries. My favorite shop in Paris is La Galérie Végétale in the rue des Vinaigriers in the 10th. In this former carpentry workshop you'll find lush greenery, beautiful planters and goodies, such as tableware and stationary, all inspired by nature. It smells really nice too!

The one thing you always bring your family from France?

La Tisanière tea. My family is addicted to these fruity herbal teas that you can get at any supermarché. For me though, I'm just really glad we finally have Dutch HEMA stores in France (our thank you gift to the French!). It was the one thing I truly missed after moving here.

Most amusing interaction with the French?

A few months after we settled in France, in 2002, some new French friends invited themselves over for "déjeuner" (lunch). My husband is a real "cordon bleu" (great chef) and they were very curious about his talents. Somehow we both understood that they meant "petit déjeuner" (breakfast). So we prepared a table with croissants, chouquettes, toast, jam, cheeses, eggs, fresh juices… I remember they were a little reluctant when we invited them over at 10AM. We had a good laugh about it and enjoyed a nice Sunday brunch together. We've learned a lot since then!

****

Follow Judith's adventures at home and around Paris on her blog Joelix and on Twitter: @Joelix. And don't miss her video tour of Studio Sapique!

From rive droite to rive gauche, Paris abounds in hedonistic pleasures. The right bank has metamorphosed into the city's most sought-after dining destination while the left bank continues to hold the key to a visitors heart with its historic charm, iconic galleries and old-warm artist haunts. Everyday, people like me heed the incessant call of their bellies and eat their way across town while others follow their wallets straight to the city's swishest boutiques. For fashion, accessories, cooking supplies and antiques, the list of recommendations in each neighborhood is robust. But where to go for homewares and design pieces?

Back in December, I spent the day trolling through the Marais for the best design spots alongside friend and fellow writer Will Taylor (who I've interviewed for Franco File Friday) who was in town to research his next travel piece for Sweet Paul Magazine. The biting cold and damp weather couldn't damper our outing and we had a ball hopping from one shop to the next, speaking with shop clerks and discovering just how much the neighborhood had to offer in unique finds.

The final result: Will tells the story of his trip and the shops he explored and I chime in with a few neighborhood picks to sleep and feed that grumbling belly in the spring issue of Sweet Paul*. It should make for a fun read! Click HERE to check it out (pg 46-49).

Of course, if there are any design or home décor shops in the Marais you think are worth noting, please let us know below.

*I am now the proud owner of a new set of locally-made dishes from The Collection, one of the fantastic spots Will mentions in the story.
** Top photo courtesy of Will Taylor

The invitations are already rolling in... wedding season is quickly approaching. And as I imagine how these events will unfold - the style, food, and themes my friends will use to mark the moment - , I'm reminded of my own Paris wedding. At the time, I didn't know Kim Petyt, the city's sought-after event planner, and arranged all the details with my husband. Were I to do it all again (can I?!), I'd head straight to Kim for ideas and guidance. On the occasion of the launch of her first book The Paris Wedding, Kim drops by to offer a few tips to planning your own nuptials in Paris or the inspired version in your own hometown.

Destination Weddings are the norm these days. Where 10 years ago it was a pretty exotic extravagance to plan a wedding in a foreign country, in 2013 you’re just as likely to be invited to a wedding in Athens, Greece as Athens, Georgia. Paris is, of course, one of the hottest destination wedding locations in the world. It’s also, unfortunately, one of the most expensive. Romantic couples wanting to plan a “simple” elopement in Paris are often shocked by the costs of Parisian celebrants, photographers, and car hire- let alone the cost of hiring an English-speaking wedding planner to help pull it all together. In fact, these vendors aren’t much more expensive than those in other big cities like New York. It’s just that taxes and charges are so much higher in France. Because of budget, many couples aren’t able to hire a professional to help them plan their Paris wedding, and decide to organize one on their own.

After nearly a decade of running a wedding planning agency in Paris, I applaud those brave souls who choose to “go it alone”, and have put together a short list of tips to help their wedding planning adventure go a bit smoother.

1// Respect the Culture

This may seem obvious, but it’s so important that I’ve listed it first on my list. France is not the U.S., so please don’t expect things to run as they do in the U.S. Yes, I know it’s frustrating to not have your emails returned for days on end (if at all), to have someone insist that your centerpieces be white (when you really want yellow) or tell you that you can’t bring your own wine to their restaurant (even if you’re willing to pay a corkage fee). These are all aspects of French culture that may seem quirky from the outside looking in (through American eyes). Just realize that more than likely, there’s a cultural explanation behind these actions, and move on. (For example, in France, yellow is the color of cuckold, so it’s considered bad luck/poor taste for a wedding. A French vendor may feel uncomfortable saying this to you, and instead may choose to simply guide you away from the offending color…)

2// Keep Your Wits About You

15 minutes on Google will tell you that Paris is an expensive city. If you find a website for a wedding planning company in Paris who says that they can organize your rehearsal, wedding AND day-after brunch, as well as coordinate hotel and transportation for you and your 50 guests all for less than 1000€, please don’t blame the French when it all goes horribly wrong. I know it’s exciting to plan a wedding- and a wedding in Paris to boot. But don’t let the excitement blur your vision. As I’m sure your grandma told you- if it sounds too good to be true, then it probably is…even in Paris!

3// Make a Visual Road Map

If you’re currently planning a wedding, you don’t need me to tell you that Pinterest is the bride (and groom’s) best friend. I know it’s hard to pull yourself away from all of the gorgeous wedding eye candy out there, but Pinterest is also perfect for creating a road map for your Paris wedding. Besides images of dresses, bouquets and vintage lace hanky favors for your guests (which, honestly, you probably won’t get around to embroidering anyway), create boards for restaurants, interesting arrondissements and a wish-book of picturesque places you’d like to visit or even exchange your vows. Most couples like to have a photo session around Paris right after their wedding ceremony. If you’ve never been to Paris before, spend some time creating a Pinterest board of spots where you’d like to have your photos taken, then share it with your photographer (and driver, if possible) before you arrive. This is a great way to save time and get more out of your photo session on your wedding day.

4// Start Planning Early

Gone are the days of dropping into town at midnight and waking the village parson to marry you and your sweetheart. This isn’t Paris, Vegas, so as romantic as it sounds, a last minute, international elopement just isn’t realistic in this day and age. There aren’t very many English-speaking celebrants available in Paris and most of them work full-time at their own churches. They also have families, hobbies and other commitments, which leaves a limited amount of time to officiate weddings for couples coming from overseas. They, of course, try to be as accommodating as possible, but to be fair, you should plan on contracting your celebrant at least 3 months in advance of your ceremony (longer if you’re having a more elaborate ceremony or if you’re planning a wedding during the high season).

5// Faites vos devoirs!

Beyond wedding blogs and travel websites, there’s a multitude of resources out there to help you plan your Paris wedding, if you know where to look. TheParis Convention & Tourism Bureau, the French Embassy, and even your local chapter of Alliances Francaise are all excellent sources to help you pull your celebration together. And now, there’s a new “bible” for those planning a wedding in Paris… my book! Called “The Paris Wedding”, this is a is a full-color, idea-packed, "go-to guide" for globally minded trendsetters who are in love with the style and romance of Paris. Half of the book focuses on the logistical “nitty-gritty” behind planning a wedding in Paris (but also includes plenty of gorgeous Real Parisian Wedding eye-candy). The other half is geared towards brides who want to plan a Parisian-inspired wedding in their own hometown, and includes stylized photo shoots as well as chapters on things like lingerie, wedding gown and shoe shopping in Paris, and resources for finding French touches like macarons and croquembouche in cities all over the world.

***

This is merely an abridged version of Kim's tips and tricks for planning a wedding in Paris or a Parisian-inspired wedding at home. For a complete guide, you'll need a copy of her new book, 'The Paris Wedding'!

To enter to win a copy, leave a comment below with the spot in Paris you'd like or would have liked to get married or how you would add Parisian flair to your wedding at home. One winner will be selected at random on Sunday, April 14 and notified via email.

Update: Congratulations to Lizzie! You'll be contacted by email shortly.

Connect with Kim:
blog: parisianparty.com
book: The Paris Wedding
Twitter: @ParisianParty
Facebook: facebook.com/parisianevents.weddings
Pinterest: pinterest.com/parisianevents

{All photos: ©The Paris Wedding except the croquembouche - from my wedding!- by François Jorez}

I know I shouldn't even mention the weather over here in Europe these days as I'm sure you've already read about the perpetual state of winter. Heavy jackets are like second skins and umbrellas must be permanently affixed to our bodies. I occasionally wear socks to bed to calm the body-hits-bed trembling and I don't feel well-equipped without my galoshes. By the end of March, we've all had enough. In Paris, all of this is especially tiresome not least because everyone's attitude tanks to a dour low.

But in the Loire Valley, where I spent Easter weekend, the vagaries of winter matter very little. In fact, the incessant drizzle and biting cold only amplifies its mystique. Gauzy clouds hang motionless and the lush valleys reveal majestic castles, bearing the hallmarks of artists and royals and calling to mind another period altogether. We trundled along in the rain at the Forteresse Royale de Chinon, our first stop on the way to the Château du Petit Thouars open house, and dived into history.

Sébastien du Petit Thouars, Loire Valley

*Above: not pita bread, fouée! The ancient bread of Touraine. For more on that, click here.

Saucisson tasting at Château du Petit Thouars

Then the rain gave way to magnificent light for a much different view of the valley's assets.

View of Chinon from the Forteresse Royale

Fresh spinach and radishes at the Chinon Market

A weekend is hardly enough time to explore the region the way it's meant to be explored but one taste - of the local bounty, architecture and story - has sparked the urge to see more.

{Itinerary}
Forteresse Royale de Chinon
Château du Petit Thouars (tasting + tour of
Ussé (the Sleeping Beauty Château)
Château d'Azay-le-Rideau
Cathédrale Saint-Gatiens in Tours
Château d'Amboise

{Lodging}
Hotel Agnès Sorel (Chinon)

{Dining}
Les Années 30 (Chinon, oldest street in town)
La Grange des Celtes (Tours, crêpes/galettes)

For more photos, click HERE.

The countdown to les grands vacances has begun. Soon, children will be on an extended holiday but before that can happen, their parents must scramble to find a place that is both kid-friendly and relatively entertaining for themselves. While Paris ranks high among travel destinations, its many paws-off pristine parks, bustling avenues and more adult dining options make it a less obvious choice.

But author Kim Horton Levesque says it shouldn't be overlooked. Beneath the landmarks, museums and well-worn boulevards is an entirely different city, teeming with activities appropriate for kids. Kim culls her personal favorites and recommendations into an astute guide called "Paris with Children", just released this week. Almost all of the spots Kim recommends to eat, sleep and play are also well-suited for visits without children, making this book an incredibly useful resource for all travelers (and let's be honest, we all have friends with children who would love to receive a little gift from one of Paris's beautiful kid's clothing and toy stores so the shop references are invaluable!). Below, she offers a few tips for traveling to Paris as a family.

Describe what you love about France in three words.

History, Food, Artisanship

#1 tip for visiting Paris with kids/as a family?

Be flexible. It’s the same advice I’d give a parent traveling anywhere with their children. Any challenges we have at home, whether it be a picky eater, an erratic sleeper, or a child who has trouble behaving in a restaurant–all of those challenges follow us when we travel. More often than not, a trip abroad will exacerbate them. Expose your children to new foods before you leave, allow time in your travel plans to rest and recover from jet lag and practice eating in cafés and restaurants at home if you want to do it in Paris. It’s also a good idea to include your child in the planning process so that they’ll be emotionally invested in the trip. I like to take virtual art tours online with my girls (8, 5 and 3 years) before we leave –it’s easier to get them into a museum once we’re there because they want to see the work in person.

What do you think makes Paris and its surroundings particularly well suited for kids?

As a city, Paris embraces its children. Most Parisian kids have Wednesday afternoons off from school, so museums and parks organize an impressive variety of activities for them on those half-days and on weekends: art and movement classes, guided walks, workshops, puppet shows and concerts––and most of them work well for non francophones. I’d made many visits to Paris with my daughters before I researched this book, but we had always spent our time strolling and playing in the parks–I had no idea what we’d been missing!

Many of Paris’s principal sights are concentrated geographically which makes the city quite walkable with kids (depending on their age). And there are parks of all shapes and sizes near each attraction that keep kids, consequently parents, happy. The Champ de Mars park near the Eiffel Tower is a hoot––there’s a vintage carousel, pedal cars, huge jungle gyms and a puppet theater. The Louvre has the adjacent Jardin des Tuileries––kids can jump on trampolines, ride a merry-go-round, there’s also a great playground and a barbe à papa (cotton candy) stand. I’ve included over two dozen playgrounds in the book to help parents plan child-friendly itineraries that I hope will keep everyone content.

Favorite spot for kids clothes and books?

Can I give you two? Bonton in the 3rd is worth a stop for books, toys, gifts and clothes; it’s cheery, colorful and fun–like a Colette for kids and their parents. There’s even a candy shop-cum-tearoom for an afternoon snack (5, blvd des Filles du Calvaire, 3rd arr.). I also like Little French Trotters in the 11th. It’s a compact, multi-brand boutique with a wide selection of innovative French Indie clothing labels like Troizenfants, Zef and Finger in the Nose (28, rue de Charonne, 11th arr.).

The place few visitors think to go as a family?

I think travelers who visit Paris for a week or less often overlook the city’s parks, opting instead for museum and monument-rich itineraries. But I think life with children in Paris happens in its parks. Not only do the gardens offer some of the city's most picturesque spots, but they give visitors a closer, more authentic glimpse into Parisian life. I’m always pleased and amazed at how my daughters, who don’t speak French, manage to transcend the language barrier and make friends with local kids on the playground. Inevitably my girls leave with a handful of new French words tucked away into their memory. These words later surface, shockingly, at contextually appropriate moments. As a family, we love the big gardens: the Tuileries, Jardin du Luxembourg and Champ de Mars because of the amenities for kids–but there are smaller, equally lovely parks within steps of Notre Dame, Sacré Coeur and Place des Vosges.

***

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[All photos courtesy of Kim Horton Levesque]

If the clutch of my friends permanently leaving Europe over the next couple of months had any reservations about doing so, spring has certainly sent her blessings. Up until ten days ago, signs of the floral season were masked by the persistent flurry, the daily downpour and temperatures that barely climbed above 40°F. You can tell that most of Europe has been dangerously sun-deprived when even a passing mention of open-toe weather sends us all into fits of euphoria.

But for my friends in Amsterdam, that bliss is too fleeting. The winters too long, too bitter. Negotiating cultural differences too wearying. Not even those bi-annual weekends in Paris were enough of a draw for them to stay put. Their expat chapter was ending. Time to pack up and decamp to California where weather and opportunity seem to operate in tandem.

So off we went to a city we first discovered five years ago (with tourist goggles and mini guide books) to spend a weekend with a couple as food obsessed as we are. Save for my coffee inquiry - what's the Amsterdam equivalent to Télescope? - we didn't plan a thing. We improvised, relied on their sharp recommendations and let whim guide us. With crisp blue skies and cooperating weather gods, luck was unquestionably on our side. "It's never like this", our friends reminded us when we began our stream of oohs and aahs. But as sedate as the city feels, even in the most densely packed areas on the grimmest of days, it vibrates with life. We ate, we drank, we cycled and we parted even more charmed by Holland's largest city than the first time.

|| A few Amsterdam favorites ||

Cycling the canals
Cyclists command the streets here which means if you're not getting around by bike, you're missing part of the experience. An ineffable sense of peace washed over me as we rode along the canals, cruised by houseboats lined in serried ranks and passed couples ambling along and ducking into art galleries and vintage shops. It was spectacular riding as the late afternoon sun cast its light across the cobblestone and then again just after dusk when the stars emerge and the twinkle lights along the canals switch on. The rare moments when I was able to fully let go of my preoccupations was on that bike. It's an amazing the amount of a good a long bike ride can do for the psyche.

We rented bikes from de Stadsfiets, 10€/day. Click here for a few other options.

Two for Joy
An artisanal coffee shop (French press, filter or syphon) with excellent little sandwiches and cakes. A spacious nook in the back with armchairs and couches makes it suitable for work but I recommend snatching the spot in the front by the window which gets devastatingly good light.

Restaurant De Kas
A repurposed old greenhouse formerly owned by Amsterdam's municipal nursery houses what is likely the city's top restaurant. The menu is carte blanche, changes daily and composed largely of ingredients harvested on-site or in a large field just outside of the city. It wasn't just the exquisite dining room that bolstered the experience but each, exacting element of the evening from service to flavor and comfortable seating. Next time, I'm booking a spot in the kitchen (as should you but plan far in advance).

Small World Catering
The affable Australian owner of this tiny sandwich shop and deli is part of what keeps locals coming round for sandwiches, salads, fresh juices and superior coffee at all times of the day. On our late afternoon visit, approaching customers didn't bristle at the long line or wait time. One bite into my sandy and I understood the fanfare. Snag a spot on one of the benches or cushions outside or take your goods to the canal.

De Ysbreeker
Critics are on the fence about the full menu at this café-restaurant overlooking the Amstel river but it's a terrific spot to work or read over coffee during the day and socialize with wine, beer and small plates in the evening. Prime people-watching guaranteed on the spacious terrace.

Brown bread and aged gouda. Enough said.
We picked up ours at the Albert Cuypmarkt, the city's largest open-air market.

What are your Amsterdam highlights?

[Click here for more Amsterdam photos]

Walking tour of the 11th arrondissement

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Vegan friendly at Café Pinson

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Verjus Sandwiches

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Franco File Friday: Kim Horton Levesque, author of 'Paris with Children'

A Weekend in Amsterdam