Franco File Friday: Carin Olsson of Paris in Four Months

April 26, 2013, 1:50 am

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Roiling social debates, pettifogging politics, surging unemployment and a grim outlook on.... well, everything. Ask the French how they are doing and one of the points above may factor squarely into their response. "La crise", as locals generally refer to the global economic crisis, still looms large and at times has the power to cloak the uplifting things around us.

Carin Olsson, a recent transplant from Sweden, offers a daily reminder of the talent and beauty right on our doorstep through her blog Paris in Four Months. Though she's well aware of the gloomier side to life in Paris, she chooses to focus on its assets - food, culture and architecture -  and in doing so, makes longtime residents fall in love with their home city all over again. Having left family and friends behind to pursue the proverbial French life at such a young age, as I did, she shares a bit of what she's learned so far and what she loves most about her adopted home.

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Picture-perfect, pastries and ”joie de vivre”.

Something you've discovered about yourself by living here?

That I have absolutely no self control whatsoever!. There are so many new restaurants to try out, deliciously looking patisseries you have to pass by and so many gorgeous sweets in this city. No matter how hard I try I always end up walking away with a little bag containing a tarte aux framboises or something similar... I’ve tried to come up with several different “rules” to keep my sweet cravings under control but so far without success.

More seriously though, I've discovered that I love to be alone. Don't get me wrong, I love spending time with friends and having all these amazing people around me but I also value the time I have with just myself tremendously. There's nothing better than to pick up my camera and being able to go for a walk around the city with just myself as my company. Now, this has become something that I can’t live without, or well, something I don’t want to live without at least. During these moments by myself (and with my camera) I get the chance to relax, think about the things I see around me and to gather all my thoughts.

The must-do and must-eat for all first timers?

My must-do for any first timer in Paris is (perhaps a little bit boring, but trust me it will pay off in the end) your research! Believe it or not but everything isn’t amazing in Paris and you really get the most out of your experience here if you just read up on a few things before coming. There are so many restaurants, experiences and places in this city that are worth every single penny but there are just as many (if not more so) that aren’t. But I’m guessing if you’re reading this, you’re probably quite familiar with Lindsey’s blog already and have a few amazing places on your mental list that you need to go to due to her reviews!

As for the must-eat… Call me boring but I’ve found a few places here in Paris that I consider to be my favourites and once I find them I don’t mind returning over and over again since I know I’m guaranteed a fantastic meal. For any first time visitor I would suggest going to either LesCocottes or Café Constant for lunch or dinner. What I love about these places is that it doesn’t cost you a fortune, the food is amazing (which can be quite hard to find in Paris if you don’t know where you’re going) and the relaxed yet lively ambiance. Go to Café Constant for a more classic, but absolutely delicious, take on French cuisine and to Les Cocottes for a more modern feeling.

Favorite neighborhood to stroll?

I haven’t been living in Paris for too long so I’m still trying to get comfortable in my closest neighbourhoods and areas, but I also want to discover more of Paris of course. Right now I adore strolling through the area around Odéon, continue around the Luxembourg garden, to Place Saint Sulpice and continue down towards Montparnasse (with a stop at Pâtisserie Sadaharu Aoki of course). I love to find small, and new to me, streets that look so unbelievably picture-perfect that it’s simply impossible not to grab on to my camera.

I also love to stroll from the Champ de Mars toward Rue du Bac and explore all those little streets in between. There are so many cute stores, cafés and boulangeries that just reminds me of why I love this city as much as I do.

Most amusing or frustrating interaction with the French?

From what I’ve understood so far it’s not always the easiest thing to be a vegetarian in a city like Paris, right? I’m not a vegetarian but I’ve had a couple of friends here that are. One day we decided to go for an unplanned lunch in the Marias neighbourhood and ended up at a simple but cosy little restaurant. When my friend kindly asked the waiter if they had any vegetarian options on the menu the waiter pointed to a dish that read poulet. My friend looked confused and asked the waiter if he had understood the menu correctly: “But that’s chicken, no?”, the waiter looked at him and nodded his head. “I don’t eat meat” my friend tried to explain to the waiter. The waiter then looked like he had connected the two dots and said “Ah, sorry! We have fish of course!”. I couldn’t help but laugh!

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Explore Paris with Carin by following along on her blog, Facebook, or Instagram!

(All photos courtesy of Carin Olsson)

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Postcard: Springtime in Paris

May 2, 2013, 2:33 pm

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There's a lot of ground to cover when your best friend comes to town after a four and half year absence. So I went straight for my no-fail favorites when mapping out our weekend. As all good trips to Paris require, we walked, we ate, we caffeinated, we shopped (mostly for food) and we exhausted ourselves - before hitting repeat and doing it all over again the following day. Here are a few of the stops on our very relaxed itinerary:
[click titles for maps and/or related articles]

//Jardin du Palais Royal 

// Télescope

//Parc Monceau

//Place des Vosges

 

//Sugar Daze Cupcakes

//Merci

(and the Used Book café) 

Dinner (not shown):
Terroir Parisien 
20 rue Saint-Victor, 75005
Métro: Maubert-Mutualité (line 10)
+33(0)1.44.31.54.54.
Reservations recommended

See a few of my springtime in Paris highlights in this AFAR collection! 

Paris Prints

May 7, 2013, 2:17 pm

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I've said it countless times but one of the most enriching outcomes to living in Paris has been connecting with some truly inspiring and industrious creatives. Two of them - Jordan (blogger queen of DIY) and Paul Ferney (painter) - lived within a stone's throw from the Eiffel Tower with their two little tots up until a year ago. While they've since settled back into San Francisco, Paris and their former neighborhood are never far from mind.

The pair have just released (in time for Mother's Day!) a new collection of prints based on the series of 40 small oil paintings Paul produced of Paris storefronts and restaurants last year. Paris devotees, you'll want to adorn your walls with a few of these! To browse and purchase, click over to Paul Ferney's print shop.

Spot an instant favorite?

Lunching at Colorova

May 12, 2013, 11:54 am

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I've already sung the praises of Colorova Pâtisserie (which, since it opened last August, has been one of two of my major motivations to go to the left bank), but at the time I hadn't fully discovered their noontime talents.

Friday is typically the only day I'm able to squeeze in a lunch date or meeting and while I try to vary my outings, I'm a fierce creature of habit. I find myself drawn to a handful of favorites - Verjus for sandwiches, Clasico Argentino for empanadas, Al Taglio for pizza, and Nanashi for Bento. All are within the 10-12€ range, all relatively quick. But when I want to linger over a more complete meal and want to be sure I am served something different than the last visit, I book a table at Colorova.

Lunch follows the standard starter + main/main + dessert or you can opt for all three, which I guarantee you'll have trouble resisting. The meal will set you back between 18-24€ (without wine) but when the first dish arrives plentifully adorned with the season's freshest and most colorful ingredients and you experience that beautiful jolt of flavor, you'll ask yourself why you've wasted your precious time with anything else.

Put down the tasteless potatoes, forgo the flaccid green beans that often constitute a side dish and go where the chef understands the value in playing with and shaping seasonal produce. It's rare that a meal meets all the right textural notes, especially at lunch, and even more unusual at this price point. And for me, that's worth the return trip every time. 

Colorova Pâtisserie 

47 rue de l'Abbé Grégoire

75006, Paris

+33(0)1.45.44.67.56

Métro: Saint-Placide (line 4)

Closed Monday, brunch menu Sat/Sunday

Reservations strongly recommended

Related

More Colorova photos in my Flickr collection

My Colorova highlight for Afar Magazine

Felicia of Love.Life.Eat discovers Colorova 

The Paris Journal

May 13, 2013, 11:02 pm

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If you only had a day in Paris, how would you spend it? Skipping stones along the Canal Saint-Martin like Amélie Poulain or ambling the cobblestone streets of the Marais? The magic of this city lives within its hundreds of urban hamlets and vibrant neighborhoods. It's there in the innumerable opportunities for inspiration and self-discovery and beating wildly in its mercurial brand of charm. It's that ineffable feeling and collection of moments that 29 million visitors came seeking last year and millions more dream about experiencing for themselves every day.

But to reach it, whether in person of from afar, you must cut through the din of prescriptive travel guides and editorialized stories. The Paris Journal, a new digital, multimedia book from Nichole and Evan Robertson (of the Obvious State creative studio), offers exactly that; an uninterrupted visual journey of one Paris neighborhood, from morning to night.

Volume One, released today for download on iPad, will bring you on an immersive tour through the hillside neighborhood of Montmartre through over 120 fine art photographs and 14 videos. It's armchair travel without the unwanted commentary; a rich escape when you need it most.

Even before the success of Nichole's book Paris in Color, an Amazon bestseller (#1 at the time of publishing this post), the couple wanted to find a way to share the details they love most about Paris without needing to rely on text to narrate the story. In opting for an app versus an e-book, their interactive vision came to life naturally and, in turn, allowed them to offer an experience that is crafted wholly for the viewer.

Download the app, sit back, and visit Montmartre. The result is absolutely stunning.

For more information on The Paris Journal, visit Obvious State.

Paris dogs

May 22, 2013, 2:40 pm

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After boarding the metro the other day, a towering man slipped into the car just as the doors sealed shut behind him. It was upon closer look that the other passengers and I realized that what was unusual about this man wasn't his height or his lanky stature but rather what he was wearing: a woman's burgundy skirt suit, a dark brown wig, and layers of stage makeup. As the metro lurched away from the platform, he launched into a theatrical monologue - a conversation with someone on the other end of a toy telephone receiver. The scene continued for several stations (likely ended up in a Vine) before he and I both descended.  It was a strange if comical incident, to be sure, but on a scale of surprising sights in Paris it doesn't actually rank highest.

Nor do my Paris gym experiences from a few years ago or the somewhat recent running trend (the pall of outdoor exercise shame has lifted!). But witnessing the scene above, pooches lined in serried ranks patiently waiting for their dog walker to arrive and start the day's adventure, was out of the ordinary. A glorious surprise that elicited a justifiable stream of 'awws' from passersby. I was in the neighborhood for Verjus sandwiches (again) with photographer Valérie Dray and we both couldn't help but admire their astonishing demonstration of patience.

Laura of Verjus explained that these dogs camp out across from the restaurant nearly everyday before their stroll but the kicker is that once they begin, the German Shepherd on the far right takes the beagle's leash in his mouth and leads the pack. Any indecorous barking or tugging and he puts the other pooches in their place with a quick stare.

Having grown up with two large dogs, I often find myself wishing for a bigger apartment to relive the experience as an adult. But with the costly commodities of square footage and green space combined with our hectic schedules, it's not very fair or comfortable for even the smallest dog. Thankfully, I know where I can get my fix when the puppy pangs return.

My favorite spots for dog sightings: Jardin du Palais Royal, Jardin des Tuileries, and Parc Monceau.

*Follow me on Instagram for more Paris snapshots

Franco File Friday: Carla Coulson

May 30, 2013, 3:09 pm

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France was in the cards for me the moment I stepped off the plane in high school. The path to making this life a reality was not without its arduous moments but there was a spark I couldn't ignore. For others, it's more of an acquired passion. For Australian photographer Carla Coulson, moving to Paris meant abandoning her first love and longtime home base: Florence. What was meant to be a year stint has turned into nine wildly creative, inspiring years that led her to publish Paris Tango, a tribute to the city. 

When she isn't shooting for international magazines, she's hard at work on her portrait series of other women who have fallen for Paris. Below, she shares a few of her favorite things and moments in her adopted home. 

Describe what you love about France in three words. 

Peeling paint, discretion and love of beauty.

How does life in France inform your work? 

When I arrived in Paris one of my first jobs was shooting couture gowns at Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix and Valentino for an Italian fashion magazine. It was an unforgettable introduction to Paris. The French understated aesthetic has woven its way into my work.

Every time I push open one of those oversized heavy doors and enter a courtyard another little bit of Paris magic is revealed. Paris is an incredible backdrop for a photographer and I adore shooting portraits in apartments with faded grandeur or in an unknown corner of Paris.

Favorite place to take first-time visitors? 

Deyrolle, it sums up the quirkiness of the French and it’s really a unique place that would only exist in 2013 in Paris (and all animals have died of natural causes). And, of course, the fabulous Merci.

A French memento you always bring home to family in Australia? 

Perfume, I am in love with so many French perfumers including Frederic Malle, Serge Lutens and Annick Goutal. I feel like the French ‘own’ perfume! I am addicted to Carnal Flower by Frederic Malle and when I can afford it I give it to everyone I love.

Most frustrating or amusing interaction with the French since you've been here? 

Anyone who has ever gone through the process to a get a carte de séjour will understand this story. Getting my French papers was the most demoralizing, frustrating experience and made me truly understand the word ‘powerless’. After months of going to and from the Prefecture to be sent back for another piece of paper the Prefecture promised to call and never did.

After three months had passed with no word I went back, the person I saw wanted to kick me out and the boss stepped in and apologized for not being in touch (first miracle). She told me if I could be back within in one hour with every document they needed (photocopied 400 times), I could have my Carte de Séjour today.

They knew I had no chance as I sprinted out the door. Little did they know that my hubby is the world’s most organized man and he had every document down to the letter he received when he studied at a French university. The photocopier at the post office was free (2^nd miracle) and I broke an Olympic record and made it back within one hour. When I walked in the door I could see the ‘get outta of here’ look in the boss’s eye and let out a little laugh of disbelief. She couldn’t believe it and good to her word gave me my carte de sejour that day. I had my first and only ever cigarette!!

Don't miss Carla's fantastic blog Carla Loves Photography and follow her work and travels on Facebook,Twitter and Instagram. 

The South of France

June 7, 2013, 1:08 am

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People often say that life moves at a slower pace in the south (some might even argue it's an indolent, unproductive pace) and while it's been an annual part of my French experience the last seven years, it was only during this last trip that I fully feel it. It's easy to point to climate and industry as driving factors but the languid lifestyle really seems to stem from an overall appreciation and respect for life. Despite having a minimum of five weeks of vacation to look forward to, Parisians are stressed, anxious and quick-tempered - adjectives that have, I admit, come to describe my own behavior at times.  

A few days split between Marseille, La Ciotat and Cassis and I felt the fervent southern pull. No stress, no rush, just sea and sunshine. Getaways to the south of France should be mandatory not only for an attitude adjustment but to revive our zest for life. At only 3.5 hours from Paris, what good reason do we have to stay away? 

What's your favorite spot in the South of France?

{More Marseille stories coming soon!}

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Franco File Friday: Yvette Van Boven (+ a book giveaway!)

June 13, 2013, 5:00 pm

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Multiple homes, multiple talents. The theme of many is unmistakable in the life of bestselling cookbook author and food stylist Yvette Van Boven. She has the enviable luxury of straddling Paris and Amsterdam, where she co-owns Aan de Amstel, a restaurant and catering company, and a dream job that allows her to toil in the kitchen all day, testing and tasting recipes that may become the backbone of her new cookbook. She's also responsible for the playful illustrations you may have seen peppered through her first works Home Made and Home Made Winter as well as in a host of prestigious publications like Bon Appétit, Elle and Food & Wine).

With Home Made Summer, Yvette transports us to Provence, where she spent many summers with family and which largely inspired the book.Through vibrant salads, beautiful tarts, luscious cocktails and lively drawings, she shares her passion for the summer bounty. Without question, this is unadulterated joy in book form. Learn a bit more about Yvette and enter to take home a copy of her book below!

Describe what you love about France in three words. 

Food, Charm, Language

How has your time in France influenced your work? 

Oh in many so many ways. The French country taught me recipes and it taught me all about produce and country living (nature, funny expressions and long-lived traditions). Living in Paris has shown me another side of French living-  the big city life where we can all explore wonderful food and meet exciting chefs. Everywhere you work and feel comfortable, it seeps into your work, one way or another.

The first place you go when you return to Paris? 

We live near the Canal St. Martin, so the first thing we usually do is stroll down the canal with our dog Marie and go for drink at one of its little bars or cafés. We often discover new little places that have just opened their doors. It’s an exciting area and we feel fortunate to be a part of it.

Your favorite French dish to eat and your favorite dish to prepare? 

That is a difficult one! I guess that cassoulet is one of my favorite dishes ever overall. I’m in love with beans and I love sausages very much. Then again, I also really REALLY enjoy a French cheese platter served with a light, green, leafy salad. We have taken over that tradition of serving salad with cheese after dinner.

I’m also hooked on éclairs, pain de Tradition, petit salé, or paté en croute. I like to make bouillabaisse during the summer, artichokes with vinaigrette and the challenge of a croquembouche. (I learned how to make one with a bottle of champagne inside!)

A lesson that life in France has taught you?

Patience. I’ve never waited so long to get anything done as I have in France.

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Win a copy of Yvette's new book Home Made Summer! There are 3 ways to enter:  

1/ Leave a comment below sharing your go-to dish during the summer (mandatory) 

2/ Like Lost In Cheeseland on Facebook -- EXTRA ENTRY 

3/ Like Yvette on Facebook -- EXTRA ENTRY

You will receive one entry for each action (please leave a comment per action). Entries must be posted by Thursday,  June 20th to qualify. The winner will be drawn randomly and announced here on Friday, June 21st!

WINNER: Kristen of The Kale Project! I'll be in touch shortly to arrange for delivery. Thanks for playing!

Six France-Inspired Reads for Summer

June 24, 2013, 5:30 pm

≫ Next: Franco File Friday: Clotilde Dusoulier (+ a Giveaway!)

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From indulgent treats to sultry love affairs, these six France-inspired stories will put some extra spice in your summer reading. 

Paris, My Sweet: AYear in the City of Light (and Dark Chocolate), Amy Thomas's memoir released last year, takes us on her emotional journey from New York to Paris. Woven through each chapter of deeply personal tales - of making friends, navigating the grim dating scene, surviving bouts of self-doubt and defining happiness (both in and outside of the bakery) - are rapturous tasting excursions on both sides of the Atlantic. Not one to discriminate, Amy relishes the treats each city has to offer and provides a little black book of all her most cherished shops and bakeries so you can experience her edible adventures firsthand. 

Self-discovery, questions of identity and the search for meaningful life experiences in Paris after college: the joys and hardships of Hilary Reyl's heroine Katherine in her first novel Lessons in French remind me a great deal of myself when I first came to the city (sans the intellectual jousting at dinner with Henri Cartier-Bresson and Umberto Eco, of course). Paris in the late 1980's may be the backdrop but this is a character-driven coming of age story that will leave you reminiscing about your own past. 

 The Paris Wife follows the tumultuous courtship of Hadley Richardson and Ernest Hemingway, primarily in Paris in the roaring twenties. Beautiful storytelling aside, I love this book because it really reflects the city's old-world charm during a time when iconic cafés like Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore hosted the generation's influential intellectuals. 

Into Wine, the latest book from acclaimed sommelier and owner of O Château wine bar Olivier Magny, doubles as both guide and memoir. Magny traces his very personal journey that led him to wine and explores the nuanced facets of the industry, from soil and grapes to labels and marketing. The watchword throughout the book is unmistakably "terroir"and serves as a great introduction for the uninitiated. As usual, Magny's approachable and engaging tone make this a wonderful read both for serious oenophiles and amateurs. 

Peter Mayle's industrious bon vivant character, Sam Levitt, is back to sleuthing in his second crime novel The Marseille Caper. With rich, historical context and local anecdotes punctuating nearly every chapter and exuberant storytelling, Mayle masterfully transports the reader to the sea and sunshine of Marseille. An engaging mystery and yet another tribute to the south of France - the perfect summer story. 

Lily Heise's debut novelized memoir  Je t'aime Me Neither meets all the requirements of a sultry summer read: devastating heartbreak, exciting courtship and amorous quandaries. Inspired by her own experiences as a single gal in a city of couples, Heise's tale taps into the true magic and mishap of finding love in Paris. You can't help but be charmed by her adventures!

Books I'm most looking forward to picking up later this summer and in early fall: 

She's not a strict vegetarian but award-winning Chocolate & Zucchini blogger and published author Clotilde Dusoulier has made the choice to cut back on meat and fish and put the spotlight on seasonal produce from the market. But is it really that easy to abstain from meat and fish, cornerstones of the French diet? In The French Market Cookbook, Clotilde delves into the love affair between French cuisine and vegetables and shows us how to play up their natural flavor in over eighty spectacular recipes that will become standouts for food lovers everywhere. 
Available July 2,  2013. Pre-order your copy HERE. 

In the food memoirs Mastering the Art of French Eating author/friend Ann Mah, explores France's regional cuisine and the passionate people who uphold the traditions over the course of a year in Paris while her diplomat husband is on a mission in Iraq (because what better salve to sudden singledom in a new country than culinary exploration?). If the book is anything like her blog posts, we can expect affective storytelling, endearing personal anecdotes and divine details of every dish. A must-read this fall!
Available September 26, 2013. Pre-order your copy HERE. 

Put down the guide books, The Paris Gourmet is poised to become the only resource you'll need before, during and after your next trip to Paris. The inimitable, best-selling cookbook author Trish Deseine has culled her favorite recipes, etiquette tips for hosting or attending dinner parties like a true Parisian, food advice (eg. selecting the right produce from the farmers' market, where to get kitchen essentials, etc.) and go-to culinary addresses in the capital in one essential handbook. Rumor has it she's even included my site in her little black book of recommended Paris blogs (hooray!). 
Available September 24, 2013. Pre-order your copy HERE. 

Any other French-inspired books you're looking forward to reading?

Franco File Friday: Clotilde Dusoulier (+ a Giveaway!)

July 4, 2013, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: The Magic of Vaux-le-Vicomte

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In France, it's notoriously challenging to switch careers. After all, you're supposed to know as an adolescent precisely what you want to do for the rest of your life. Makes sense, right? But there are exceptions and perhaps the best example is Clotilde Dusoulier who bucked the French penchant for pigeon-holing when she went from computer software engineer to published food author.  

Her passion for food and cooking was borne not from her experiences growing up in France as one might assume but from her time in San Francisco, where she discovered the versatility and freshness of California produce. Fast forward ten years - after she created an award-winning blog, authored several books and had her first child - and Clotilde is embarking on an exciting new culinary adventure with her freshly-released recipe book The French Market Cookbook. It's truly an honor for me to be able to welcome her into this series! 

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Home. Color. Irony.

Favorite place to take visitors in France?
Wherever you are, I feel the green market is the best way to get acquainted with an area: you get a chance to observe the crowd, take a look at what grows locally, and what specialties are showcased at the various stalls.

The most memorable culinary experience you've had in Paris?
It's hard to name just one, but I once cooked with Nicolas Vagnon, the chef who used to run the restaurant La Table de Lucullus in the 17th before he moved on to other pursuits. He was crazy talented and very intuitive, and being in the kitchen with him was like watching a wizard at work.

Best spot to go with kids?
I love Le Poussette Café in the 9th arrondissement.

 I went there every week when my son Milan was born, and it's a wonderfully welcoming place for young parents.

Something most people overlook when they visit France?

Most people look for the "postcard Paris" when they come here, and I certainly understand the impulse. But the city is much more cosmopolitan than that, and it's great to explore less obvious neighborhoods such as the Faubourg Saint-Denis or Belleville, to get a sense of what the city's really like.

WIN A COPY OF 'THE FRENCH MARKET COOKBOOK'! 

To enter:

1/ Leave a comment below with your favorite vegetarian dish.

2/ Like Lost In Cheeseland on Facebook -- EXTRA ENTRY 

3/ Like Clotilde on Facebook -- EXTRA ENTRY

You will receive one entry for each action (please leave a comment per action). Entries must be posted by Thursday,  July 11th to qualify. The winner will be drawn randomly and announced here on Friday,  July 12th!

**Update: Congratulations to Candace who will receive a copy of 'The French Market Cookbook'! I'll be in touch soon. Thanks for playing, everyone!

***

Follow Clotilde: 

Blog: Chocolate & Zucchini 

Facebook: Chocolate & Zucchini

Twitter: @ClotildeNet

Book: The French Market Cookbook

The Magic of Vaux-le-Vicomte

July 10, 2013, 1:40 pm

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“The gardens of Versailles under Louis XIV seem to be but a deficient, proportionless, hyperbolic imitation of Vaux le Vicomte, born of royal resentment.” – Alan S. Weiss, author and professor.

Those who faithfully follow the guidebooks on Paris and its environs will undoubtedly find themselves journeying 10km south west of the capital to Versailles to discover the Sun King’s gilded emblem – an impressive if grandiose symbol of royal power and excess that attracts over 3 million visitors each year. The grandeur of the palace and its interiors aside, the biggest draw is unarguably the lushly manicured gardens that stretch for 250 acres. But few are aware that this 17^th century French Formal Garden style for which Versailles has come to be recognized was, in fact, a copy when it was revealed.

Landscape architect André le Nôtre was commissioned by French Finance Minister Nicolas Foucquet in 1656 to transform the gardens and grounds of Vaux-le-Vicomte, the property Foucquet had acquired, into a majestic extension of a palace fit for the king.  Le Nôtre set out to design a modern but formal garden style that would exist in perfect harmony and symmetry with the architecture of the Château itself. His work remains iconic because he was the first to play with perspective and scale in such an ambitious way. Optical illusions were employed as a way to embellish the grounds and encourage visitors to veer off and explore the subtleties that lay beyond the immaculate parterres and allegorical statues. Just when you think you’ve seen everything there is to see, a surprise awaits around the corner. The Château and its interior are irrefutably magnificent but the gardens make Vaux-le-Vicomte a marvel worth the detour.

The story holds that when King Louis XIV discovered the estate for the first time at the grand unveiling party in 1661 (organized especially for him), he became green with envy and enraged at the idea of being outshone by a member of his court. Foucquet’s temerity got him arrested (as well as accusations of lifting funds from the treasury), put on trial and sentenced to life in prison, leaving his revered gardener (and architect and painter) available to take on new work. His jardin à la française model was later applied not only at Versailles but at Chantilly, Fontainebleau and Tuileries in Paris, among other estates.

2013 marks Le Nôtre’s 400^th anniversary and a fantastic new exhibit has opened in the basement of the Château that traces the inspiration and construction of the gardens. Daytime visits are wonderful year-round but candlelight evenings on Saturdays through October 5^th make the experience all the more enchanting. I'm on a mission to convince my husband to make a trip just for the experience. 2,000 candles illuminate the estate and set the stage for alfresco dining or an evening of bubbles at the newly-opened champagne bar before a fireworks display concludes the celebration. 

We didn't have to battle it out for a view of the apartments or worry about running into a crush of tourists as we turned each corner in the garden. It was calmer, more modest and of a far more manageable scale. I can't speak highly enough about our recent experience and I urge all of you to make this spectacular property a priority on your next trip.

{HOW TO GET THERE}
-Direct shuttle from Paris with stops at Vaux-le-Vicomte and Fontainebleau
-By train, Gare de Lyon to Melun; trains every 30 minutes.

Click HERE for more information on transportation. Book your admission in advance online. 

A Mini Guide to Marseille

July 15, 2013, 8:00 am

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As least once a year, I am asked by friends and acquaintances for recommendations in Marseille. Up until very recently, I'd always say: skip the center, head straight for Les Calanques, the breathtaking limestone cliffs that jet into fjord-like inlets in the sea that have been recently classified a National Park.  Go for nature, not culture, I insisted.

But with the million-dollar overhaul for its role as a 2013 European Capital of Culture, the entire city, from the formerly gritty, ramshackle center to the old hillside district, has transformed into the south's cultural epicenter. The dining scene is evolving rapidly as well, attracting food-conscious travelers more than ever before. It's finally a place to enjoy both the calm of the sea and the bustle and tiny passageways of its urban core. I walked away from this weekend getaway feeling more impressed and entertained by Marseille than ever before and I can confidently encourage everyone to carve out time to discover its rich history and celebrate its promising future. It may come with a fresh new look but France's oldest city has retained all of its southern pride.

For a full guide - where to stay, eat, and explore - check out the mini guide I put together for New York Magazine's 5-Point Weekend Escape Plan series! And for more photos from our weekend, click here.

Thanks for Four Years!

July 19, 2013, 4:00 pm

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Four years ago, "lost" and "anxious" were the watchwords that described my mental state. I was transitioning from grad student to twenty-something in need of career clarity, perpetually in an existential fit. What would my place in Paris be now that it was time to face the realities of adulthood? And more importantly, how would my mixed background be received by French employers?

Some of the friendships I cultivated during my grad program were changing - the international cohort was enriching but the end of the program brought tearful goodbyes as classmates closed the chapter on their Paris experience to head home in search of work. I struggled to see how the next stage of my life in Paris would unfurl and for several months I was in a bit of a dark place.

Then a few things happened. I started a blog that, while initially serving as a forum to vent some of my expat frustrations, took on a life of its own and evolved into the site it is today. Around the same time, I met the girl who would become my business partner in my cookie adventures, figured out the whole Twitter 'thing' (because in 2009, it was still a somewhat nebulous social tool whose purpose seemed to teeter between superficial Facebook-style status updates and real, engaging conversation), and started opening my eyes to the dynamic city around me. With my hand in a few different pots, I was on the road to creating my own path and Paris story. Lost In Cheeseland pushed me to explore, to uncover the stories waiting to be told and embrace its quirks and innate gifts. I pined less and less for trips back to the states and spent more time traversing the city eating, drinking, photographing and immersing myself in a place that felt more like home than anywhere else.

A couple of years later, I started suggesting article ideas to publications and have been contributing stories about food, travel and lifestyle in and out of France for a number of outlets since (you can see some of them here). This blog has not only connected me to many inspiring people - from my Francophile readers to other expat writers - but taught me heaps about myself and given me the courage to be more ambitious. Blogging truly changed my life.

Of course, I wouldn't have forged forward with this site without your comments, encouragement and undying love for France. So to thank you for being such an integral part of Lost In Cheeseland, I've arranged for a few fantastic gifts:

Grand prize (1 winner):
-2 spots on a Context Travel 3-hour walking tour of your choice
-1 cooking class at La Cuisine Paris (course: Café Gourmand)

2nd prize (1 winner):
-3 beautifully illustrated Paris maps courtesy of Herb Lester 

How to enter:
1// Leave a comment below with your favorite Lost In Cheeseland post of the last year
2// Leave a comment telling me who you would like to accompany you on the Context Travel tour

Both responses are necessary to be entered to win. Entries will close on August 1st and two winners will be chosen thereafter. Thank you to Context Travel,La Cuisine Paris and Herb Lester for offering these prizes!

The fine print: Giveaway open to readers worldwide. The grand prize winner should have travel plans to Paris before July 2014. Winners will have 48 hours to respond otherwise an alternate winner will be chosen. Good luck!

Photo 1: Elena Rossini
Photo 2: Herb Lester

Sun-kissed from the South

August 5, 2013, 1:52 pm

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I don't know whether it was the chaotic week before our hectic departure or the need to whittle down worries to a minimum but for the first time since I've had this site, I didn't schedule a single post during my holiday. I packed every bathing suit I own, far too many sandals than I could realistically wear on a trip so dense in adventures on foot, and an interminable list of landmarks and regional specialties we would need to experience in each destination. The promise of beach-loafing sent my spirits soaring while the anticipation of digging into plates of pintxos whet my appetite long before we found ourselves hopping from bar to bar. This was to be the ultimate road trip vacation (minus the camping), the French version of our mini California road trip from last year.

From the brief visit to the Dordogne to an extended tour of Basque country, the last two weeks truly exceeded our expectations and even quashed a few preconceived notions. Now among the tourists and newly-returned vacationers in a refreshingly calm version of Paris, I'm attempting to go through hundreds of photos. As I adjust to the ever-unkind post-vacation reality and select the most interesting highlights of our trip to share, check out my Instagram for a sneak peek. More soon!

Bonnes vacances!

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Les Parisiens

August 8, 2013, 12:29 am

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One of the things I love about the French is their self-deprecating humor and innate ability to caricaturize themselves for the comic good. Or, in the case of Les Parisiens, caricaturized by someone else. Now through August 28th, Parisian tics and quirks are interpreted playfully by Kanako, the Japanese illustrator for the site My Little Paris - a beloved authority on all things new and hot in the capital- and displayed in an open-air exhibit in partnership with the city Paris.

50 illustrations and nearly 1,000 posters make up Les Parisiens which spans the city's boulevards - some can be found in the area around the Champs-Elysées, others in Saint-Germain or further afield in Barbès. If you find yourself in Paris this month, keep your eyes peeled for Kanako's work and the giggling Parisians taking it all in (or debating its merits).

For those who can't be here, check out the exhibit preview HERE. Enjoy!

3 Lessons Learned from Life in Paris

August 12, 2013, 9:00 am

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I first introduced you to Hilary Reyl's novel "Lessons in French" in my recent post 6 French-Inspired Reads for Summer. Since the book provided a bevy of insights into adulthood as scene through a prism of life in Paris, I thought it would be interesting to have Hilary share a few of the life lessons she gleaned from her own experiences in the capital. All three are prefaced with related excerpts from the book. 

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1//
“In Paris, I am virtually transparent.  A gift perhaps, un don, so to speak, voilá.  But when you feel invisible, there is no end to the trouble you can get into.”

The heartbreaking beauty of Paris, along with its push to stylish conformity, seduces you, in your youth, into constructing ever-fresh identities in its myriad images.  It is a city where you can lose yourself in version after version of gorgeous otherness.  This is at once liberating and quite dizzying.  Along with my heroine Kate, I have slowly learned that you cannot simply be seduced over and over.  You yourself have to assume a seductive presence; you have to be visible.

2// 
“...the importance of Berthillon ice cream [is] on a par with that of the umbrella.”

Paris teaches a practical approach to pleasure.  You should know where to get the very best ice cream or baguette or cheese, just as you should know that it often rains and therefore it is wise to be prepared.  Living in Paris taught me a gratifyingly cerebral approach to hedonism.  I came to understandthat chocolate sorbet on the Ile St. Louis and chestnut croissants from Hédiard were a form of knowledge which I could respect in myself.

3// 

“The room’s two windows framed the small interior garden, one degree further removed from the street than the quiet courtyard, the gem within the gem.  Almost no one ever saw this garden, with its pleasantly overgrown geometric plots outlined in pale stone...”

While Paris is replete with gorgeous public spaces, glorious parks and churches, museums, cafes and restaurants, many of which are showpieces in my novel and in my memory, it is also a city whose architecture is very private. In the Sixth arrondissement, where I came of age, you not only have the Luxembourg and St Sulpice and Café de Flore, but you also have streets lined with heavy doors accessible only by numeric codes, leading into private courtyards and secret gardens around which domestic life is arranged.  In order to discover these interior worlds, you have to be patient and observant.  Paris has taught me to appreciate the beauty it puts on display, but also to understand that it is built on a labyrinth of secret realms. Nothing is more inspiring for a writer.

-- Hilary Reyl 

What have you learned about life from living in or traveling to France? 

Scenes from a Dordogne Wedding

August 15, 2013, 2:22 pm

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The Dordogne was the launchpad to our summer holiday this year and while its verdant rolling hills, winding rivers and rich regional fare are reasons enough to explore the area, our visit was largely sentimental.

My husband's former colleague, insatiable traveler-friend and matchmaker - the man responsible for introducing us - was preparing to embark on his own love story with an Australian woman he became smitten with during a trip to Vietnam. His was to be the latest in an array of multi-cultural nuptials we've attended in the last several years. I always look forward to these weddings because not only do they share an air of my own experience - in-laws who can't communicate with words but convey warmth in ebullient expressions and kind gestures, guests who fly in from all over the world, poignant toasts from loved ones - but blend cultural traditions that keep things interesting.

Our friends chose a secluded pocket of the Dordogne (the Perigord Vert) to host their festivities - specifically at the Château La Durantie, a mansion built in 1845 and renovated by private owners for private events. As someone who once dreamed of marrying in a Château (haven't we all?), I instantly fell under the charms of this stunning property which offered the perfect dose of calm and quiet to properly usher us into our vacation state of mind.

Eighty-some guests were encouraged to loaf about in 1,000m² of living space (12 rooms, can sleep up to 29 people!) and spend time wandering the 12 acres of land - complete with a pool, tennis court and fruit orchard. Beyond the sheer grandeur of the Château and its amenities, we were moved by the warmth of both families, who conveyed their sincere gratitude to each guest for having touched their children's lives in some way. As the bride's family shared their impressions of France during this first visit, the memory of my own father's experience discovering my adopted country for the very first time came careening to mind.

That and the threat posed by the wedding day's blackening clouds, fierce winds and precipitous drop in temperature. At our own ceremony, we were greeted with menacing skies and drizzle but exited to blinding sunshine as newlyweds. Here, the weather remained capricious right up to the couple's first stroll as husband and wife, when the skies reverted to a crisp blue and the sun poked through vaporous clouds. The showers finally came during the cocktail hour and, to be sure, brought with them good luck. As the French so wisely say, un mariage pluvieux, un mariage heureux. 

Wishing our personal cupid a lifetime of happiness, whether life keeps him in Australia or closer to home!

Château La Durantie
24270 Lanouaille
Dordogne

Click HERE for more wedding photos.

The Essential Paris Travel App

August 19, 2013, 1:02 pm

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One of the iPhone apps that helped save the day countless times when we were in China was TaxiBook, effectively a language tool to facilitate communication with taxi drivers and vendors with tips covering a range of popular landmarks and restaurants. We did our best to pronounce the words ourselves after listening to the audio dictionary but still needed to use the dialogue option to make our needs fully understood.

While most Parisians speak enough English to direct you and make fun of you (kidding! Sort of...), getting around has just gotten easier with the Visit Paris by Métro free mobile app by the RATP, the city's transportation authority. It's available in several languages and most of the features are available offline so you don't have to worry about connecting to wifi while you're on-the-go. Just be prudent when whipping out your phone on the streets or on the metro - neither locals nor visitors are safe from the deft hands of the pickpockets these days.

      

Download the app HERE and check out the video above for details. Happy traveling!

Other Paris apps : 

Paris Pastry
The Food Lover's Guide to Paris
Le Fooding
Mov'in Paris (Vélib)
SNCF (Trains)
Aéroports de Paris 
My Little Paris
Word Reference (FR/EN Dictionary)
The Paris Journal (for dreamers)

Dating in Paris - From the Male Perspective

August 23, 2013, 1:33 am

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Given that I met my husband three days after I arrived in Paris (hold the eye rolls, please, it was chance!), I have very little experience with or insight into dating French men. Blogs, books and magazine articles never seem to tire of coming-of-age love stories featuring young, Anglo-saxon women and dapper French men - no matter how trite and embellished they may be. Few, however, share the experiences of Anglo men and their adventures in dating. Young writer and pal Cody Delistraty offers his own tale.  

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It was three years ago that I went on my first date with a French girl. She was from Brittany and thus had one of those terribly sexy accents that American tourists are always trying to imitate (“Eet woood be a plezzure to join yoo for deener”). While an accent is a pretty superficial reason to go on a date, at the time, it seemed as legitimate of a reason as any. I was young, and, accent aside, it was exciting to be going on my first date in Paris.

Yet, even in the most beautiful city in the world during the most beautiful time of year, romance does not always come easily. 

Conversation was running short. We were both ill at ease. When the waiter brought my fish, he informed us that it had been boiled alive. This was Paris I thought, not rural China. What was I doing making dinner reservations at a restaurant that cooks its fish alive? And why in God’s name would the waiter be telling us this? The New York Times restaurant review had let me down! And the lamb she ordered? Well, it was hardly cooked at all. Saignant (bleeding) would be an overstatement. My date decided to eat it anyway.   

As we left the restaurant and made our way along the Seine, the icy air whipped us mercilessly. We threw our gelato away, too cold to eat on this Eskimo-style date. Checking the weather before leaving my apartment wouldn’t have been the worst idea either.

So we sat down on the stone quays with no conversation and an odd meal behind us. The intrinsic romance of the sparkling city now mocked us now as we sat in silence.   

“Well how about we go home now?” I said. “I’m pretty tired.”

Then she confirmed that this had been my worst date ever: she vomited.

Indeed, the lamb should’ve been cooked longer.

Helping her into a taxicab, I figured I’d never see her again. Well, I thought to myself, your first French date may not have been terribly romantic, but put it behind you, perhaps the next one will be better. But just as I was finishing my internal pep talk she asked:

“Would you like to come to the theater with me tomorrow? It’s Le Misanthrope. I have an extra seat, and I would love to see you again.”

Excuse me? I thought.

This gorgeous girl from Brittany who was taken to a terrible restaurant that gave her food poisoning then had to walk through the cold making dull conversation wants to see me – the idiot who orchestrated it all – again?

“Ummm… I’ll text you.”

“Okay,” she smiled, before driving away. “Bonne nuit.”

I didn’t end up going. It would’ve been too cruelly awkward, but these kinds of surprises, in which I find myself on entirely different wavelengths with French women, aren’t actually that unusual. Often though, it’s the other way around, where I’m the one who thinks the evening went well when my date probably wished to never to see me again. Take, for instance, the time I went to Frenchie Bar à Vins with a girl from Paris. I had a pleasant time, but after two unanswered calls and a text, I never heard from her again. Or how about that time I went out to a girl’s cottage in Normandy only to find out that she wanted our relationship to be just “a weekend thing”? Now I’m not one to complain about hanging with a hottie in the French countryside, but how could I have misunderstood so many dates?

Now, I’m not going to chalk up this dating dilemma to mere linguistic or cultural differences or even the supposed “hook up culture” among 20-somethings. There is indeed a reason, which I will get to shortly, but, in order to make sense of it let’s first think about how transatlantic dating works in the other direction.

Think of any film that deals with an American living in Paris. Almost uniformly, there is a precocious young American girl, who finds both her womanhood and her independence in the City of Lights. This happens in An American in Paris, in Truffaut’s Breathless, in Chaplin’s A Woman of Paris, in Funny Face, and in Charade, among others. You’ll notice in all of these, it’s not just womanhood being attained, but also, you guessed it, a French man. (Owen Wilson and Marion Cotillard’s time-traveling Midnight in Paris romance might be our gender-flipping exception to prove the rule.)

Statistically, there are far more American women with French men than American men with French women. The question though is why?

After taking an informal poll from American women the three characteristics that came up most to describe French men are: sexually mature, worldly, intelligent

Add in the fact that they can cook and American men might as well throw in the towel now.

Of course, it’s not just blind adoration and romanticization that makes the French man/American woman relationship the preferred dynamic. One could also make the argument that it’s predicated on simple practicality. “Typical” gender roles have the husband making the lion’s share of the income, and what with the headache of getting a work visa, a nonexistent professional network, and, at times, a language barrier, the newly arrived American woman isn’t immediately in a position to make a living for herself in France. Therefore it would follow that the male in the relationship would have to be a French native, thereby essentially barring an American man from winning a French woman. But after a year or two with some hard work, a smart, enterprising American woman can gain access to all sorts of professional and social networks in France, so I wouldn’t be comfortable saying practicalities alone explain why French man/American woman couples flourish while French woman/American man duos often sink.

I also don’t think it can be explained by French women simply not finding American men attractive. When my French begins to slip and my American accent shines through that’s the time I get the most bites from French women. I’ve also been on a fair share of dates with French girls, so it’s not as if they’re all denying American men outright. A brief chance is usually given, but as I’ve found both in my own experience and in speaking with friends, the odds of a genuine relationship blossoming are depressingly low.

Now think what you wish, but after conversations with other American men and upon reflecting on my own dates, I’ve found that the American man/French woman relationship doesn’t often work for a very simple reason: expectations.

One of the most obvious examples is when a French date told me this particularly harsh, semi-compliment:

“It’s so odd spending time with an American. I’ve never done it before, and I’d always imagined you all to be,” she paused, realizing she was about to paint broad strokes of offensiveness. “Well, crass, rude, and perhaps a bit lazy.”

Compare those three expectations to the ones American women have of French men, and it’s apparent that the deck is stacked against the boys back home.

I’ve had meaningful relationships while in Paris, but they’ve been exclusively with American women (and one Brit). It may just be me, but it seems that one date isn’t enough to get past these heavy cultural expectations. So, French ladies, I promise we’re not all the uncultured clowns you might think we are. Do please give us another chance. Yet, I suppose I’m not one to talk. After all, that Molière play could’ve been the best date of my life.

Perhaps we can both endeavor to give one another a second chance? I’ll prove that I can cook as well as any Frenchman, and the next time a girl throws up and asks me to see a play, I’ll say, Why the hell not, I love me some Molière. But, let’s skip the lamb though. We American men need all the help we can get.

See more of Cody's work on Thought Catalog and Medium and follow him on Twitter: @Delistraty

*2nd photo courtesy of Cody Delistraty